I still like React but I agree that it has lost its way somewhat. Hooks are very counter-intuitive and I don't think you can really call them a successful abstraction. You just get used to them over time. I don't use this react suspense stuff, nor have I kept up with the latest server side rendering with React tech. It doesn't appeal to me, I only use next + react with the pre-rendered export path and I think that niche still works fantastic. But at some point in the future they may take this away from me.
This tends to happen with frameworks. A new one arises (next / react) and then over the course of many major version updates tends to just scope creep and try to do too much, or is monetized (next) and needs to find ways to justify people spending money on what was previously just free open source code.