Basically, I have a single big server with 80 high-capacity HDDs and 4 high-endurance NVMes, and it's the S3 endpoint that gets a lot of writes.
So yes, for now my best candidate is ZFS + Garage, this way I can get away with using replica=1 and rely on ZFS RAIDz for data safety, and the NVMEs can get sliced and diced to act as the fast metadata store for Garage, the "special" device/small records store for the ZFS, the ZIL/SLOG device and so on.
Currently it's a bit of a Frankenstein's monster: using XFS+OpenCAS as the backing storage for an old version of MinIO (containerized to run as 5 instances), I'm looking to replace it with a simpler design and hopefully get a better performance.