OP has this first:

> If a system has distributed-consensus mechanisms, many different forms of event-driven communication, CQRS, and other clever tricks, I wonder if there’s some fundamental bad decision that’s being compensated for (or if the system is just straightforwardly over-designed).

then later down in the article:

> Send as many read queries as you can to database replicas. A typical database setup will have one write node and a bunch of read-replicas. The more you can avoid reading from the write node, the better - that write node is already busy enough doing all the writes.

isn't this same as CQRS