These wide swings annoy me. You hear that you shouldn't let your fridge go above 4°C, because that's dangerous. And you obviously don't want your fridge to go below 0°C. But finding a setting where the hottest part of the fridge doesn't go above 4°C (or even 5°C or 6°C) during the hottest part of the cycle and the coldest part of the fridge doesn't go near 0°C during the coldest part of the cycle is really pretty difficult, in my experience.
Really? My fridge says 8°C, I think?
Christ.
I also run my fridge at 8C, which I think was the default setting when I bought it.
Gonna go change that right now.
(I always remember the recommended fridge temperature as 40F, which avoids the confusion.)
8C is a perfectly fine temperature for a wine fridge. And they usually have thermostats because a wine fridge is a luxury item. As opposed to keeping people from getting foodborne illness.
Be careful what you wish for.
When buying my current fridge, I specifically tried to go out of my way to avoid complexity, but the opening for my fridge is an odd size so my choices were limited. The only fridge I could buy that didn’t have a bunch of crap that’s was guaranteed to break (ice maker, water dispenser [seriously? aren’t most fridges right next to a faucet?], LCD-covered glass panel, etc) that also had a thermostat had a digitally-controlled thermostat. No knob or physical buttons, just a capacitive surface for temperature adjustment and some LCD screens showing the fridge and freezer set temps. (Not the actual measured temps, that would be too useful, just the set temps.)
In hindsight, I probably should’ve just gotten one with a regular dial, but I was a bit fixated on the “real” thermostat. So now I’ve got that to look forward to breaking in 4-5 years and figuring out where the hell to source a discontinued fridge LCD panel from.
Same reason you'd keep a container of filtered water in your fridge.
Maybe if I was on a well I would need to filter my own water, but then I definitely wouldn’t trust that job to a fridge.
There's going to be a temperature gradient in a typical fridge, if only because one side is getting opened every now and then, and the other is separated by all the products which are inside.
I suppose what they're trying to do here is even out that gradient without running the compressor.
I have always had my fridge at 8°C and never had something dangerous happen to me. I have never come across fridges that were way cooler, apart from fridges of friends in Canada and the US. What's the reasoning?
Even if your products generally meet their "should be safe at least until" date (Mindesthaltbarkeitsdatum, idk if it's the same as "best before"), you might exceed that longevity more often than you do now and thus have less food waste by setting the fridge colder - if food waste is a thing you have in the first place (I'm the type of person that is hungry all the time, opens the fridge when hungry, and isn't super selective (among what I've bought anyway), so food I buy ~always gets eaten before it spoils, but then when I see food waste numbers, apparently that's not the case for everyone so I'm just throwing this out there)
Edit: trying to fact-check myself, I can't find any trustworthy source in Dutch saying your foodstuffs fridge should be more than 4°C. I measure new fridges when moving in and again at least once during the first summer to make sure they stay at or below 7°C when we had the door open a normal amount of times, so I know they're that (and not much cooler, to not freeze items or waste energy). So far, products meet their minimum shelf life date thingy and almost always exceed it. Strange. Maybe this recommendation I heard predates the internet (showing my age here), or maybe every page on the internet assumes that nobody actually measures it properly and so they recommend a value that's half of what's actually safe?
My refrigerator is typically between 3-4°C, never had any problems with things freezing.
Ours (well, our landlord's) runs very consistently for 40 +/- 3 minutes, with just over 1h30min in between during normal use, or 1h54min if it was closed the whole time (like at night). The temperature of products, as measured with a cheap infrared thermometer that's probably off like 10%, varies between 2 and 7 degrees, but it's not very consistent between shelves (top seems warmer but then the very bottom one, that is only half deep, is as warm as the top again). The products I checked have all been in there for days; reflectivity may be part of the difference, not sure. I don't know what the air temperature difference is at the beginning and end of a cooling cycle though
I can't tell you how long it runs for because the compressor is too quiet for me to hear, sorry. Maybe if I had an energy monitor on it. Sounds like a fun idea.
The Mindesthaltbarkeitsdatum is the deadline to which the item may still be sold by the vendor, iirc.
The foodstuff itself is loaded with water, it won't have an excursion dangerously above 4C just because you opened the door and the air temperature raised a few degrees.
If you are really worried about it (you shouldn't), and you don't keep your refrigerator full, add a few water bottles for thermal mass.
Dangerous how?
Compressor systems use twice as much energy as an ideal system, while Peltier systems use about 10x as much.
Fine, let's expect that the new tech doubles the efficiency, to 7%. Still, to my mind, pretty wasteful, on par with a steam railway engine. A Peltier element is good in cases where you can afford a large heat removal device, but need precise temperature control and no moving parts. For a home fridge, I'll take the sound of the compressor and the temperature fluctuations of a 400% efficient compressor-based heat pump over a Peltier element any day.
- energy source is solar, DC already and abundant.
- cold climate so the fridge can contribute to heating the room
Anyway good to know those small electric cooler with Peltier effect must be consuming a lot electricity.
No, they don't. First, without defining a delta T, efficiency is meaningless (unless its a Carnot cycle).
Second, the efficiency is (depending on op. point) higher than 100%. See [1]. You can pump 20 W of thermal power with 2 A @ 4 V = 8 W
20 W of cooling for 8 W of work, or an efficiency of > 200%. This is common to all refrigeration cycles, and frankly for a puny 10C, it sucks.
[1] https://www.datasheethub.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/data...
Still a bit far from compressor-based designs, but not negligible, and almost doubling the efficiency is indeed a serious advance.
I'd choose a fridge with a larger compressor.