But I've also never lived in a house that has dimmers (they've all been old homes in the north eastern US) and I never use overhead lighting, so it's not something I need or would miss.
But I've also never lived in a house that has dimmers (they've all been old homes in the north eastern US) and I never use overhead lighting, so it's not something I need or would miss.
I googled for G4 LED tube PWM and got products that say they are G4 LED tubes that use PWM.
Pretty sure 100% of LED products sold anywhere use PWM if you don't use them at full brightness. I sometimes walk around lightning stores with a slo mo camera and see PWM in every price bracket.
Actually that's not true, my first thought was "just use a layer of phosphor excited by the LEDs", but fluorescent tubes do that and people used to make the same complaints about flicker, so.
Looks like "flicker index" is a useful(?) search term, anyway.
Apparently Philips Hue uses 500-1000Hz. I wonder if there's manufacturers that use a much higher rate.
On an old iPhone with basic slow-mo recording capabilities, typical Hue bulbs don't "blink" when the video plays back, but the PWM-dimmed iPhone in the same video recording was blinking/flashing like crazy.
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Another example of the PWM details mattering: I can't use any iPhone with OLED (anything from the X to current), but I am able to use a Note9 which has OLED with DC-style PWM.
PWM at low duty cycles tends to be much more noticeable. But that’s where higher frequencies should solve the problem.
Some PWM implementations ramp the brightness up and down slightly (easier on eyes), while other manufacturers flip the switch on and off harshly (like strobing)
The shorter time the screen is dark between being lit up results in a a shorter pulse duration, and the pulse duration and depth are more important than the Hz