Comment by zemvpferreira | Hacker News Reader

Comment by zemvpferreira | Hacker News Reader

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Because panicking when you're being rag-dolled by even smallish waves can kill you, let alone waves of consequence. I don't have the words to describe what it feels like to be pushed to the bottom of the ocean by a wave, then just as you feel like you're running out of air be pushed back down by the next wave, and the next wave. You have no idea which direction is up and which is down, or how long it's been since you stopped breathing. 30 seconds will feel like death if you're not properly trained. Your very large very stiff board will be tumbling with you and could knock you unconscious or split your head open at any time.

My girlfriend got to be a decent surfer (~5 years practice and a former competitive swimmer) but never invested in learning the ocean. In 2018 she went out in a break she didn't know, in conditions above her league. Nothing too big (maybe 5 feet) but strong and relentless. Conclusion: She got sucked into the washing machine during a set and nearly drowned. Had to have the water beaten out of her lungs to restart breathing. Now she has panic attacks just getting into a flat ocean for a swim.

The sea is no joke. I encourage everyone to try surfing, it's a great hobby. But less than 10% of it is riding waves.

"the sea is no joke" trvth I was blessed with "over" sized lungs, and like swimming underwater, and hiking in mountains, so have enjoyed bieng able to do those things with minimal effort. When living in a city, I swam in an olympic size pool, and can go two lengths? (back and forth once+) undewater , but have no idea of how this actualy compares to an average. Got into doing the ?wim hoffman? breathing and like that, but have never noticed any altered conciousness, but that might be because my lungs are so large that I will need to realy realy push it? dont know, but after a car accident I was xrayed, and they were very surprised that the xrays, had to be redone, in two parts, as my lungs dont fit on a standard xray. I sing, and can hold a low note for a long time, and am kind of loud and boomy, unless I am carefull, which is a down side, as it is alarming for people in enclosed spaces. So breath work from the perspective of fine controll and exploring actual true limits, is something that is suddenly, looking like a good idea, for me. consiousness and all that

You should try freediving. 2 length in a 50m pool without weights and fins is way above average. But please take a course first, free diving can be very safe but only if done with a properly trained buddy.

Or just join the foiling community and go 40% wave riding. 80+% if pure down winding. Entree is a little more expensive but you save on not having to travel exotic locations (or not at all).

Everyone else in the water will hate you though. Everyone. Even the sea janitors are above you in social standing.

Why?

Nothin personnel

I think you have got your emotions mixed up, what you mean is called being jealous :)

No, obviously, I understand the hate towards those foiling in a crowed point breaks. But, at least in my circle, most of it happens in places where nobody's surfing anyways. Downwinding is pretty much invisible. Surfing has fallen victim of its own success with overcrowded spots (people intentionally breaking each others surfboards, come on) and the necessary travelling isn't great for the planet either (nor is a carbon foil, obviously)

Not op, just an observation, when you are underwater e.g. diving these things are really loud. Of course jet skis etc are even worse but the latter is not permitted were I go diving. Maybe that's part of the resentment.

Interesting but makes sense, TIL

The one time I see surfing mentioned on HN and of course HN squeezes out the most nerdy take on surfing possible

Literally why I'm here

Not the most convincing advertisement

Just a different type of fun. I find avalanche training to have a similar effect for backcountry.

For some it's sobering, for others it's terrifying.

Yes my wife and I were watching a group of hikers one time and we both looked at each other and talked about how none of them had even seen a demo on using an ice axe. It felt like walking into a kitchen and seeing the chefs juggling knives

Yep, and sadly it's a typical story in the backcountry, sometimes ending tragically.

At the end of my three full day avalanche training the instructor said “now remember, you are now the least qualified people to go into the backcountry.

That stuck with me.

That's a great line!

I find it highly motivating

He's using an anecdote. So, yeah, not a study.

The only point being made is panicked breathing before disaster, versus a little training and a few controlled breaths before disaster. And that he also experienced maybe some of the same mind altering effects of breathing.

Since we all breath, I think in this type of thread we'll find lots of anecdotes around this subject.

Surfers try to scare away would-be-surfers. Less waves for thee, more waves for me. I don't even have a girlfriend.

THAT’s where I knew to not believe you!

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