As an early adopter of SwiftUI, this hasn't been my experience—but I understand that a lot of people struggle with it. I think it's pretty opinionated, and if you stick to the "preferred" way of doing things, life is easier.

The biggest (and known) issue with SwiftUI is the complex error messages you get, and the fact that the type checker will give up and ask you to break up your view into "distinct sub-expressions." Really the issue is almost never the complexity of a view, but some simple syntax error (passing the wrong type to a function, etc).