I remember when the entire point of crypto was to avoid banks
And it still is for many; the banks just sort of want to throw their two cents in about that. And it turns out, the worst thing about bitcoin is that it's money for enemies; nobody can stop them from doing so (well, aside from their own regulators). Sort of how something being permissionless works.
Mostly I was surprised by the indecision to modify the original bitcoin protocol to allow for more transaction throughput and the vast amount of energy that the bitcoin blockchain ending up consuming. Furthermore, while I understood the potential for fraud I was not expecting both the volume of fraudsters and the scope of some individual frauds.