There's lots of onramps, like shared/control panel hosting where it will just be there and/or wordpress where you want a customizable blog and now you're writing php.
There's a middle ground of frameworks and stuff.
You can write pretty darn fast web pages with just the php language if you're careful.
PHP extensions aren't the easiest language extension I've used, but you can really speed some stuff up if you need to, or interface with libraries/functions that don't have a php interface already.
And then if you're facebook, you can do Hack.
Sure, people love to hate it, but it's going to stick around for a long time because it's good enough, it's very available, it works at all these levels, and it's not tied to any particular enterprise.