Cross Views
moultano.wordpress.com
moultano.wordpress.com
I'd probably most appreciate a layout with one frame on the left, the wigglegram in the middle, and the other frame on the right, so that I can get a sense of both the distances and the detail.
Closing one eye and I still see the depth effect.
Main brain works very differently than I assumed...
With this effect I guess one could make even people who are blind on one eye see in 3D
It takes quite a bit of practice to see them well:
https://spdbv.unil.ch/TheMolecularLevel/0Help/StereoView.htm...
I remember seeing something similar, but made of an array of dots (you did not know what was behind the doors until you see it by crossing your eyes)
Bonus, I also found this real-time 3D-ifier for your screen: https://github.com/zjkhurry/stereopsis-anything
Same content, but all lined up and rendered the whole article in cross-view.
You can now read the article and see the pictures while in cross-view.
https://jasonjmcghee.github.io/you-should-make-cross-views-3...
I also had to shrink the window as I couldn't manage the cross view on a widescreen :)
You’re welcome.
Something like stereoscopic GIFs come to mind, e.g. https://tenor.com/fr-CA/view/dain-stereoscopic-daingifs-3d-m...
In other words, taking the two images and swapping them quickly creates the illusion of depth.
Edit:
Looking into it, there's a word for it. Wiggle stereoscopy: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiggle_stereoscopy
https://cdn.coastalscience.noaa.gov/datasets/aerialphotodb/u...
https://cdn.coastalscience.noaa.gov/datasets/aerialphotodb/u...
EDIT it can be tedious to discover such pairs. If only there were a tool...
The tiny thumbnails at the bottom of the page work, but the larger images I can't cross my eyes enough.
I think it depends greatly on getting the screen/image size just the right size and also getting the viewing distance right. On large monitors it seems harder to see.
This tip in the article helped me a lot, it's much easier to cross your eyes further with something to actually focus on
"Cross view" pictures require converging your eyes, so the images have to be in the opposite position from what your eye would see.
Once I look at the ones at the bottom and just zoom in/out in the browser I can see them perfectly.
I have a 33" monitor and seeing them means sitting much closer than normal and then zooming out in the browser.
I'm not sure how practical the "crossing your eyes to get 3D" thing actually is, it makes my eyes water after a minute or so, but it's still sort of cool to see my cheapy monitor doing 3D without any special glasses.
The water eye thing only happens to me if I cross my eyes and focus before the picture and not behind the picture. The latter takes some time to let the eyes relax, but its much more natural.
If you use a 180° fisheye lens, you can immerse yourself in the scene. just make sure to keep the camera perfectly level, or you'll end up making yourself sick if you try to view the images unadjusted.
I had a lot of fun with doing this 20 years ago. Sadly, my visual acuity has become significantly different between my eyes (even w/ correction) and the enjoyment of 3D displays has really diminished as as result.
Just musing because I'm working and busy:
I wonder how difficult it would be to do video. (Obviously you'd have to shoot two videos in parallel versus just moving the camera and shooting again.)
Converting existing 3D videos to a cross-eyed viewing format would probably be the easiest way to experiment with it. I wonder if anybody has done that. I've never looked at 3D movie formats before. I always assumed it was two interleaved streams.
If you get it wrong things will look too big or too small and the 3D effect will be softer or too pronounced.
Using two cameras I had a time lapse of a fog coming in where you could see the 3d structure becuase they were at two different streets looking out.
Like op this was done nearly 20 years ago. Now you don't even get fog any more.
One approach is time-shifted side-window video. Time-offset frame pairs from mono video that's pointed perpendicular to camera motion. Pretending that frames offset in space, time, and orientation, are offset only in horizontal-space-perpendicular-to-shot. Sufficiently perpendicular that difference in apparent size within pairs doesn't bite, and similarly for motion stability, orientation, distance from subjects, and non-horizontal motion. Phone video out the side window of a train/plane/bus/car with a view, or a drone footage segment that meets constraints. River seen from bridge-crossing train window; waiting rocket seen from circling drone. Upside is easy capture, and an inter-ocular distance that's potentially quite large (miles) and adjustable in post processing. Downsides include non-static things don't fuse (traffic by that river, fog off the rocket), and it can be a pain to find usable segments in existing video.
Last summer on a road trip to Alaska, it was almost my exclusive camera for the trip. When I got back I wrote an app to take the MPO files it contains and turn them into a printable parallel-view image. The side-by-side images are intended to be printed and used in an old-fashioned stereoscope.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CrossView
https://www.reddit.com/r/ParallelView
There is a test image you can try:
https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Fg...
Whichever "view" looks to be closer is the one you should use.
"Foreground text describes viewing type" - there is no foreground, it's just text on a page?
I believe that there is a small percentage of the population for whom stereoscopic images (including 3d films) just don't work at all. Either they lack the ability to perceive depth directly or their brains aren't fooled by images with no parallax relative to their eye movements. I don't have any cites for this though.
As in, try doing something like this:
1. Zoom the images small enough to be almost parallel to your eyes.
2. Make a binocular out of used kitchen rolls.
3. Each side should look at exactly one of the images
It should just work. Both images should converge like they do in a binocular.
(you can then try removing this DIY binocular suddenly and see if you can maintain focus)
https://www.damninteresting.com/temp/damn-interesting-stereo...
The trick is to focus normally on the image, then move your focus to be a few inches behind your screen, as if you're looking through it at something behind.
The problem I think most people will have is screen size. If the screen is too big then going cross eyed will be harder and might cause strain. Straight eyed can be easier, but I still think there's a limit on screen size. Magic eyes when printed are about the right size for people's heads so just work.
The second problem is the pictures look half as big as soon as you "go 3d". So although it's very cool and I buy the author's point that some pictures need the depth to make sense, there's always something lost from the full size picture. On my phone it made it like looking at a postage stamp!
Still I might try it myself given how easy it sounds. I imagine even a slight bit of wind would make some subjects impossible, though!
Even with just a single eye, it is possible to see depth: this would be via monocular depth cues, such as depth of field.
If you ever wondered why 3D visuals, no matter how technically advanced, never quite felt right, this is likely the culprit. When your eyes adapt to the stereo 3D cues, the monocular cues are lost and vice versa. There are some VR technologies that do hope to achieve both at the same time using eye (and iris?) tracking, but I haven't been following the topic for a while. It's essentially a quest for a lightfield display.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vergence-accommodation_conflic...
But yeah just having the cameras on either side would be great, although you couldn't play around with the distance as easily.
Using the parallel view, or focusing out beyond the picture to make the images converge has always been easier and more comfortable for me.
Your eyes have to focus. For things close enough they can tell from the required small angle of cross-eyed movement, how to focus.
These pictures (and stereograms) disconnect the focus and angle of your eyes. Do it enough and you loose the ability to focus quickly. I found it out playing with steregrams on a 286 pc a long long time ago.
YMMV but I lost the ability to quickly re-focus object that you dont already know the size of; and it's a bitch.
Set up so the two images (with slight differences) are next to each other, cross your eyes, and look for 'shimmering' spots - these are the differences between the images.
It makes differences very easy to spot, which is pretty cool!
Thanks for sharing!
It will only work with parallel eye images though (at the end of this article).
most stereograms are designed to look correct when you cross your eyes
This is how I look at stereograms (looking nearer than the page), but at least some of the images on this page seem like they're designed for the other way around (looking in the distance, beyond the page).This one looks weird when I look at it cross eyed, but fine when I look at the other way.
https://moultano.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/17...
I was confused that some were fine and others (the later ones) looked weird!
https://www.atarimagazines.com/creative/v9n1/162_Stereo_grap...
That's a stretch, but I guess clickbait is required to get engagement nowadays.
People have been writing provocative titles for things since before the internet.
That's with pupils 65mm apart, give or take. Now scale that down to the horizontal distance between lenses on a phone. Coincidentally on mine they are about 13mm apart. You just multiply everything down linearly: my camera has the same experience at 60mm distance from an object as I do at 3m. It would be pretty useless past 2m, but also with those constraints you'd notice the quality drop off with range within a single object that was approaching 50cm depth.
Now that's OK itself, you could get some useful work done with that, but there are so many provisos to it that it would be very hard to sell as a feature. To top that off it's algorithmically painful. There's a reason the commercial 3D scanners don't (typically, only) use stereo pairs; there's almost always a better way to do it.