Step the GPU voltage up to 48V. (anyway you make a new connector that's not compatible with existing PSUs. Why not actually fix a problem at the same time, once and for all! [48V should be enough for anybody, right?])
I would be totally happy if the next gen of computers have 12V outputs to the mainboard and CPU and 48V to the GPU and other power-hungry components. This would make the PCB of those cards a bit bigger, but also would have less power losses and less risk of overheated connectors on the other hand.
Meh. Might as well ask for its own AC cable and be done with it.
Tail wags the dog, modern style ...
In server areas and extremely specialized stuff? Yea, sure. But we’re talking desktop PCs here.
... do you not have electric kettles in the US? Foolishly, I thought this was a standard kitchen appliance all over the world, I've even seen it in smaller cities in Peru.
There's aquarium heaters on amazon that say they're 10kw or more and plug into a 120 outlet.
I bought a magnet that is supposed to hold "150 pounds", but pulls off the ceiling (in it's strongest position) with just 10-15 pounds.
Amazon specs are fake.
Many parts of the world, it’s a good idea to boil water before using it for drinking, brushing teeth, etc.
So it’s actually really convenient for many use cases besides tea or coffee.
We could even use 240v electric tea kettles here in the US if we wanted to; most kitchens with an electric range and oven have 240v (or 208v) outlets to plug them in to. But those outlets are usually inconveniently located for counter–top appliances. It wouldn’t cost much to add another above the counter, but it is rarely done in practice. Of course, in many parts of the US natural gas heating is cheaper than electric so the houses there are built for gas ranges and ovens instead.
My solution to drinking a cup of tea is also unusual: I have a no-longer-in-production Sunbeam Hotshot and I use it heat only as much water as I need right now.
It raises one tea-cup worth of water from whatever temperature it is that comes out of the cold tap to boiling in about 40 seconds.
I just dump a cup of water in, push one button to heat it up, wait until it boils, and then push another button to dispense that hot liquid into the cup that I'm using for tea.
It then turns itself off until next time.
Many houses run circuits that are rated for 20 amps even if they don't have the right outlet for it so this is an inexpensive upgrade for most.
It's the difference between NEMA 5-15 and 5-20: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector#NEMA_5
I think this is mainly because the 20 amp outlets are kind of ugly, and the fact that barely anything actually uses a 20 amp plug.
In my house, almost every circuit has a 20 amp breaker and 12 ga (yellow) romex, but only a couple of outlets are 5-20.
I can buy a 10-pack of nice 15A Leviton Decora Edge outlets (that use lever lock connectors instead of screw terminals) for $26 ($2.60 each), but basic 20A tamper resistant outlets (which newer editions of the NEC require anywhere a small child can access them) are $6+ a pop.
When nothing outside of my electrical room (where the servers live) has need of a 20A receptacle it's kind of pointless to spend the extra money on them, but the extra couple bucks on 12 gauge copper is always wise.
If my understanding is correct, then you overkilled it and you could have saved a few dollars, at least one welli-intentioned rant, and still have been compliant with NEC.
A literally-single 15A outlet like a Leviton 16251-W would not pass muster, while one dual-outlet example of the 15-amp lever-lock devices you mention would.
I had the luxury (or curse, depending) once of owning a home that needed all of the wiring replaced.
Being the kind of person that I am, I overbuilt things as I felt was appropriate. As part of that, I certainly wanted to install 20 amp outlets (even though I've never held in my hand a 20 amp plug).
The cost of that, vs good spec-grade 15A duplex outlets, was insane.
I know that the only difference is using one T-shaped contact instead of a straight and some different molds for the plastics. The line producing T-shaped contacts already exists, and so do the molds. Every 15A outlet sold today can transfer 20A safely.
It should be pennies difference in cost, and it was instead whole dollars.
Sucks.
(I'm reasonably certain that we are going to be broadly stuck with this low-current, low-voltage business until something very different comes along, and that any of this is unlikely to change in my lifetime.)
Electricians will almost always install 20 amp sockets where they can, but they avoid running 12 gauge wire because it costs about 50% more.
Most of the US utilizes the NEC for installation compliance. Per NEC, 15A-style outlets are "to code" on 20A circuits unless a single recepticle ("dedicated") circuit — in which case a 20A-style recepticle MUST be installed.
For any electric appliance (including computers) which operates for 3hrs+ ("continuously"), the circuit rating is reduced to 80% capacity (e.g. only 16A load allowed continuously on a "20A circuit" == only 1920W computers allowed on 20A circuit, 1440W on 12A).
Pro tip: check your own PSU, but practically all modern computers can handle AC input 100-240V (all you need is the correct IEC power cord for a 240 US plug).
I have fixed enough melted devices in my career to always twice-torque each&every connection I make. For temporary extension cords/plugs, "twist lock" ends are worth all the extra dollars.
Protips: use Eeez-Ox (a conductive paste which inhibits corrosion) for high-load applications (non-data, only). My own gamerig's AMD GPU has it (sparingly applied) within its dual 8-pin connectors. I supply the 8-pin connectors from a single pair of 8awg copper, which is directly soldered within the PSU's PCB power-take-offs... so only a few inches of 16awg for voltage drop (into the GPU), which reduces the amperage required (but is also unnecessary overkill).
That's a new one for me. Do you have a reference for that? I'd love to read more.
As trade practice, certain applications are ALWAYS deemed "continuous," e.g. water heaters, computers, space heaters, general lighting.
Otherwise, running your microwave, toaster, and coffee maker at the same time would likely trip the breaker.
And obviously, the stove/oven is on its own circuit unless it's gas.
(Note, my building is actually 3 phase 208 volt not 240volt so I don't have 240 volt plugs but 208volt plugs)
But really, doing a subpanel yourself to expand breaker capacity is a really simple project - most people if so inclined could do it themselves. Anywhere from $100-200 for the panel itself depending on how many spaces you feel like adding, up to $80 for a large enough breaker to feed it, and some tens of dollars for SER cable.
IMO, what usually drives up the price is the ancillary stuff - opening up a wall (and re-finishing it) because there isn’t enough physical space, or adding extra main panel capacity/service capacity because the main feed is insufficient, or having to run heavier than expected wiring because the only available space gets really hot (poorly ventilated attic space), or having to run surface conduit due to a specific challenge with framing.
Then add in labor (where I was in a high cost of labor area), and it can get expensive quick.
An actual surface mount subpanel and appropriate wires/breakers is usually only a couple hundred bucks total like you note.
Imagine that the GPU would instead suck up all the power it needs through the PCIe connector, without all those pesky cables. (right now PCIe can provied 75W at 12V, i.e. 6.25A; that same current would provide 300W at 48V).
I'm sure there are power supplies for servers that go above 1600 watts too. If you really want to, you can ... but you really shouldn't.
ATX PSUs usually have IEC 60320 C14 inlets. The IEC 60320 standard itself states that this inlet is only good for up to 10 Amps.
UL is happy to ignore them and say that 15 Amps is okay. It wouldn't surprise me if someone else were happy to ignore that and say that 20 Amps is okay.
Even still, swapping a C14 inlet for a C20 inlet (IEC max 16 Amps, UL max 20 Amps) would be a relatively easy thing to do (EDIT: on a PSU that is already designed to take more than 15 Amps, obviously). Probably a warranty-voiding action though.