New 100W USB 3.0 Spec Can Charge Laptops
techweekeurope.co.uk
techweekeurope.co.uk
Just imagine one of these cables also acting as a USB keyboard, which brings up a new terminal, adds an SSH authorized key and closes the terminal window without you even seeing it.
Yet. Give it a couple of years. The monitors are really smart now - many of them running code and have flash memory. The attack won't be directly by the monitor - the monitor will have been infected by malware earlier ... say, by an infected computer ...
Our devices are getting too smart, and our protocols getting too trusty, for our own sake. (Although I'm sure governments and other law abusers like the RIAA are raising a glass to each of these "advancements")
Inception is a nice tool to play with if you want to try out DMA attacks: http://www.breaknenter.org/projects/inception/
You may also want to check out the Volatility forensics framework: http://code.google.com/p/volatility/
there are other working powered USB implementations available http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powered_USB
Er, Apple designers seem to love those.
Stockholders should too.
Use MagSafe at home/work because it's a superior solution, but hopefully Apple hooks up one/all of their USB ports as well to power, so you can recharge with a generic USB cable in a pinch.
On the other hand, USB cables are cheap, but have less guarantees on throughput. In fact, since many ports could be on one hub, you can't even use all ports to there maximum potential. USB is likely to stay in its current position for the foreseeable future though.
The voltages are a nice choice.
5V: backwards compatibility. Everything is 5V.
12V: same as your car - lots of things run on 12V. It is easier to build a step down converter than a step up. so that gives the hackers some options.
20V: It was genius of them to step up to 20V. as others have pointed out, charging a laptop (often 17-20VDC required) is perfect. This is also a good choice for keeping the conductor size small in the cable. We get to 100W (wow).
now if you really want to be forward thinking, maybe look at the way electronics have moved from 12V, to 5V, and then to 3.3V. If they want this to be super portable for future use, maybe put in 3.3V - although I can't think of what it would be used for right off.
RE: 12V. Your car's voltage supply has huge margins (ripple, DC offset, etc), but in general - sure.
This also means that the cheap Chinese USB power bricks will be even more dangerous.
I couldn't care less what the standard is, as long as it's a standard and everybody uses it. 400-pin docking station connectors are not standard, and pity the fool who tries to change that.
Sadly my 170w laptop still would need a separate adapter.
A laptop's power system is essentially a UPS: if there is no (or not enough) power coming in from the main source, flip to the battery. This won't be any different for this use: as soon as it wants to draw more than is available it'll see the under-current and switch over. The smoothing capacitors will ensure it can stay alive during the switch-over just as they do when you unplug the charger normally. If it is a little brighter then at times it might be be able to draw as much as it can from the external power and draw the excess from the battery, but I suspect no laptop is currently designed that way (they generally either get more than they need or nothing at all from the external source, so trying to be clever in response to getting half what you need would be over-engineering).
That's a bit too much precision for that standard. It's only ~13.8 V when your car is running and the alternator is charging the battery. When the car is off, it'll be 13 V or slightly less.
wow... just think if every USB3 port needs an extra 100W of potential from the PSU in your computer (plus the overhead of switching effeciency). So if you have 3 USB3 ports that would mean +300W on your supply (to be safe).
Higher voltage is better for distribution and for very high power loads (including heaters). But a lot of things like low voltage.
Why do you say that? Look at any USB charging plug - very simple inside. You only need "messy" electronics for high power or high (above 80%) efficiency.
Basically you would need 20v -> 5v vs 120v -> 5v - there isn't really a lot of difference. (There is some, but not enough to make changing everything worthwhile.)
Also, the double conversion isn't great (you would need a power supply in each plug), assuming typical 80% power supplies you would end up with end to end 64% efficiency.
And when I called 120v adapters messy I meant for the kind of thing I see that runs off 20v. Relatively high-powered computers and game consoles and monitors.
But worse, power supplies have an optimum efficiency, usually at around the 75% usage point. If you have a power supply large enough to power everything, it's not efficient enough to power just a few things.
> And when I called 120v adapters messy I meant for the kind of thing I see that runs off 20v. Relatively high-powered computers and game consoles and monitors.
And I still don't see what's messy about it. Those things would anyway need a power supply to convert the 20v to whatever they use. You could just as easily put in a 120v power supply (and use thinner wires).
It's probably not worth wiring a whole house with fat wires but in theory having nice safe universal plugs without dealing with external transformers would be nice.
I'm sure if someone wanted to design a supply that's efficient at different currents they could. Worst case would be 2-3 different supplies glued together with a management chip.
Well, for starters, most for-profit enterprises like to avoid liability. 20 V things are considered "low voltage" for regulatory purposes while 120 V things are considered "high voltage." That has certain implications for how you have to electrically insulate your portable device.
Then you also have to consider the difference between AC and DC. A power supply meant to connect to the wall has to have an energy storage device (usually a capacitor) for the 120 times per second that the wall delivers no energy.
Designing and manufacturing a device to power from 20 VDC (+/- 10% or so) is amazingly easier than one that must slurp 120 VAC.
>Basically you would need 20v -> 5v vs 120v -> 5v - there isn't really a lot of difference
This is completely wrong. 120 VAC is 120 V RMS, which has peaks of +/-170 V. Go to digikey and compare the price of 340V capacitors to 40V capacitors. Then consider the fact that your low voltage capacitors only need to filter relatively high-frequency ripple and occasional step-loads, while your high voltage caps need to supply energy when the wall isn't (so they needs to have much more capacity).
http://m.hexus.net/tech/news/peripherals/42705-new-usb-stand...
here is an article from nov 2009 http://www.tuexperto.com/2009/11/05/intel-no-desarrollara-el...
and many more http://www.tineye.com/search/d582fc65885700337f2c3ade01878bc...
But that makes me wonder where they are adding the pins, there doesn't seem to be room (unless it's inside the connector, with two rows of pins).