Fixing my monitor's power button
lkhrs.com
lkhrs.com
I put the monitor in a corner and left it for around a year. A year later I get another similar monitor with a broken OSD nipple like the one in this article. I noticed that it had no problem with cables being pushed out of socket. I looked at the back of the monitor and saw that there's a little screw just above the inputs on the back of the new monitor.
So I snag the screw from the new, broken monitor and try to screw it in to the old 'working' monitor in hopes that it would fix the shell, and it won't screw in. WTF right? Same monitor, same model.. No screw hole but there was a place for a screw, just no hole. So I pull the bezel up enough to notice that there actually IS a threaded screw hole behind the shell, there's just no hole in the back for the screw to go in. So I break out a drill, make my own hole and the screw screws right in. Perfectly fixed.
First time I ever fixed a monitor with a drill.
That being said, I once replaced the thumbsticks on an X360 controller due to stick drift. It was very fun to destructively open up the old mechanisms and see how they worked.
I also operate my sit/stand desk with a pair of tweezers, by shorting some pins on a breakout board.
And here I thought I was nuts using a bench power supply clamped onto some loose jumper wires to charge my wireless keyboard/trackpad.
> And here I thought I was nuts using a bench power supply clamped onto some loose jumper wires to charge my wireless keyboard/trackpad.
Also, at your point, couldn't one bodge something together with a little charging circuit or "variety pack of M/F connectors on wires" from Sparkfun? If you're willing to cut away some material, you could build your own special charging port, so that the loose wires end up outside of the device.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/E-Switch/JS1400BFQ?qs=E...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/SKRHACE010?...
It turns out you 'pull' the thing toward you for 'down' and 'push' it away from you for 'up'. Did you guess right?
The only thing dumber than that is that DJI remotes use the same braindead scheme to control camera tilt: pushing the wheel moves the camera up and pulling on it - moves it down. Anyone who piloted anything would, of course, agree that it's insane (you push the stick to go down and pull on it to go up). I had to open mine up and swap the wires because DJI in their infinite wisdom didn't make that configurable in their app.
I spent ages searching for that option in the app, but never thought of physically swapping the wires in the controller. You've just given me a new project.
It's so stupid that DJI doesn't make that configurable.
Not saying you're wrong about the ergonomics, but I personally like it.
This was true when CRTs monitors were around, and also if you're tearing into an old plasma screen. However, the power supply inside a new LED or OLED flat screen monitor will drop straight to zero after just a few seconds.
And thank goodness, I like to tear things apart when they break, I am not very good at fixing them but finding the root cause helps me find closure. anyway, nearly every single time an lcd would die in that time period(beginning of lcd flat panels to 2015 or so) I would open it up to find the high voltage control chip smoked.
Sources for those that need it:
It's called a solder sucker amazingly enough (perhaps desoldering pump is the more formal name). Very handy when they work.
For the unlabeled control buttons, you have to press one and then a little on-screen GUI pops up with icons that barely tell you what they do. When you choose an option on the on-screen GUI, the function of each button changes. There is about 1 second of latency between when you push any of these buttons and when it does something. Absolutely awful.
Very brave to go disassembling the button component itself, and it paid off. Personally I wouldn't spend that time, but the worst case is ordering a new button part either way, so I might try it in future.
If you have the know how to rework PCB's like this person (and all the equipment already on hand), I would estimate that it's the same amount of effort to just fix it like this yourself, than to seek out the manufacturer, communicate and identify the internal part, and arrange payment.