I'm sticking to cached static resources, and just sending data over. Not rendering from the server, but not writing single-page apps, either. The more you render from the server, the larger your caches end up. Not doing that for HTML.
Just HTML, CSS, and JavaScript. No tooling. No building. Web Components and fetch(). No frameworks on the client-side. Express still on the server.
I'm trying to optimize for not swapping out dependencies on a several year scale, and it's working out pretty well so far. I removed React because they're not interested in UMD builds anymore, and I'm not going to jump through hoops to make it work on my end, either.