I have some older Google Speakers, and while they seemed to be 2, after being powered off for long enough they can't be set up again, not even with internet access since their firmware was also outdated and the app isn't able to set them up again.
Same here. My gold standard for this is hardware that comes with the open source Tasmota firmware (or which can be flashed to Tasmota). All 75 light switches in our new house run Tasmota firmware and to me it's the perfect combination of simple, flexible and yet deeply powerful. Devices can be controlled via MQTT, web requests, webUI console or serial and not only does it avoid any cloud dependency, Tasmota devices aren't even dependent on having a router to coordinate locally with each other! They can be set so that if they don't see a wifi router, they'll form an ad hoc mesh network.
To me, this is the ultimate in reliability because even if the internet connection is offline, even if the Home Assistant Raspberry Pi crashes, even if the wifi router crashes - as long as there's power, the lights will still always communicate and work together in their device groups. When we built the house I just ordered cheap ($15) wifi light switches from Amazon, flashed them with Tasmota, configured their device groups, labeled where they went, and gave them to the general contractor's electrician, who knew nothing about home automation. So we didn't pay anything extra for special installation, design or programming - in fact we got a $5 per switch discount because they didn't need to supply the dumb switches.
The only slightly tricky part was convincing the very old-school electrician he didn't need to run traveler wires for all the three, four and five way switches. Even after I explained it to him, he didn't quite believe me that they would work so he could test them with just his temporary construction power in an unfinished house with no internet, wifi or controller hardware. I just told him to start by installing the fixtures and switches for a hallway and he was amazed when switches along the hallway controlled fixtures they weren't connected to - including sharing dimming memory and the behavior of the micro-LED strip on each light indicating brightness and status!
I'm using Kasa switches and not sure they can be flashed?
Can you provide couple links with the switch and the firmware you used. Thanks
Three years ago when I was choosing devices I initially ordered a Kasa switch to try but after a little research quickly realized I didn't want any cloud-locked proprietary devices installed in my home's walls. So, I sent the Kasa switch back unopened and chose this dimmer switch on Amazon because it could be flashed with Tasmota firmware: https://www.amazon.com/TASMOTA-Martin-Jerry-ESP8266-Assistan... (now $20 each in a three pack). https://templates.blakadder.com/martin_jerry_MJ-SD01.html. Ultimately, almost all these devices are commodity components based on standard reference designs. Various off-shore manufacturers will put these in their own different plastic designs with slightly differing button, light and other features. Kasa just happens to only offer their flavor locked to their proprietary app, cloud and services. Even if they are benign today, that can always change without notice and they won't be in business forever.
As you'll see on the user repository, Tasmota supports all this different hardware by grouping them into type classifications and then within each type using a configuration string. The MJ-SD01 switches I bought are Type 73 which is a PWM Dimmer. The configuration string is listed on the page I linked and specifies which pins are used for input, output and what they're connected to (buttons, LEDs, dimmer, etc) because this is something various manufacturers often do differently. Everything needed to make generic Tasmota work on any device listed in the repository is in the config string on its repository page. Just copy and paste that string into the device's Tasmota Config web page and the buttons, lights and loads will be mapped to the correct pins.
These Martin Jerry switches now come with Tasmota firmware pre-installed but they did not three years ago, so we had to open them and temporarily solder three wires to the board to upload the firmware using a USB-Serial adapter. I used it as an opportunity to give my middle-schooler some practical soldering experience. This was a one-time requirement because once installed, Tasmota firmware then can update itself via wifi. Fortunately, lots of devices come with Tasmota pre-installed now. Here's a partial list: https://templates.blakadder.com/preflashed.html but you can just search Amazon, eBay and AliExpress for "Tasmota" to find others.
I chose this particular switch because it fit the modern style of the house we were building, has three primary buttons (plus a tiny reset button just under the rocker) and unobtrusive LED indicators. Today there are many other similar switches available with different looks and features and I might choose differently now. Under Tasmota the three buttons and LEDs have sensible defaults but can optionally be assigned to any functions you'd like on the device, on other devices or to anything else under Home Assistant control via press, long press and double press. One thing to keep in mind about these (and similar) switch devices is that the "front-end" of the button controls and LED display are entirely separate from the "back-end" of controlling the attached AC power load such as a light fixture. By default the buttons are mapped to control the device's own load just like a normal 'dumb' switch, but this can easily be customized. I have some switches whose front buttons control loads connected to other switches but not the load connected to that switch. And I have some switches that don't have any AC fixture connected to the output. I use those to do things like control low voltage landscape lights connected through a Tasmota wall power plug in a panel outside the house. I suggest keeping it simple when you start by sticking to the defaults, just be aware that you can later do all kinds of creative and unexpected things because Tasmota is so flexible.
Last used the command-line utility with a PowerShell script to make the lights in the playroom do a rainbow-random color dance party for the kiddos. Was nice to crank out a working automation in 2 minutes.
https://github.com/softScheck/tplink-smartplug/blob/master/t...
https://python-kasa.readthedocs.io/en/latest/cli.html
As an aside - Tasmota is great, but I'd be very wary of random Chineseum off Amazon for switching mains power.
75! Can't you just employ a butler? ;-)
But yeah, building a custom house. It's definitely not for the faint of heart. Having done it now, I like to advise "If you're someone with the resources to build your own custom home, you'll find the experience transforms you... into someone who no longer has the resources to even build a garden shed." :-)
To be fair, we knew this going in and only did it because we happened to have access to a deeply experienced general contractor who'd built high-end custom homes for several friends of ours over the past 15 years. And he has his own dedicated crew, most of who have worked only with him for much of that time. Although he wasn't the cheapest (nor the most expensive), he had an extremely impressive, personally verifiable track record. That's very rare to find, and without it, we probably wouldn't have even considered doing a custom home. And he did complete the project nearly on time and nearly on budget - and COVID happened during the build. Everyone else we know who was building a home during COVID ended up at least a year late and >40% over budget - so, even though technically a little late/over budget, the guy delivered at a near-miraculous level given the circumstances.
Yes, this is one of those nasty hidden costs that the "just use TLS/SSL for everything, it's easy!" people don't seem to recognize - introducing certificates to the mix suddenly makes your application coupled to wall clock time being in sync with the rest of the world. That is a big step in complexity right there - as everyone who ever had a clock drift couple minutes off the rest of the world, and saw half of the Internet stop working for them.
(And don't get me started on getaddrinfo(), another step function in complexity, hard-coupling even most trivial software to a heap of things that isn't relevant to it at all; or how it all interacts with SSL.)
The reason I use wall-powered wifi devices alongside Zigbee is the Zigbee architecture was designed to enable tiny battery powered devices that can run for a year or more on a small battery. Zigbee does this really well but I didn't want to be changing batteries on nearly a hundred wall switches, plugs and sensors that are connected to 110V anyway or perma-installed in places where wall power was easy to supply. There are also many devices like ultra wide band motion sensors, RF bridge repeaters, etc that can't be battery powered for long periods.
This Wifi+Zigbee split architecture has worked flawlessly in both our primary residence and a vacation home but they are both large detached homes, well-covered by wifi mesh routers with wired backhaul and other 2.4Ghz wireless neighbors a hundred or more feet away from our outer walls. So it's important to test wireless range and environmental compatibility inside your specific wall construction and unique RF domain before settling on wireless standards and architecture and installing a bunch of devices. Also, I'll mention that it's always tempting to just use wireless backhaul because it's easy but I think a big reason my large, complex home automation installs have avoided issues with randomly varying latency and intermittent signal loss is that I put in extra effort to get gigabit wired backhaul to each wifi mesh node and wired a Zigbee node alongside each wifi node. This entailed getting creative, like using an old pre-existing coax cable run with a Docsis modem to one mesh node and powerline ethernet to another. I'm pretty sure that extra pain up front prevented a lot of niggling gremlin pain later.
Inovelli Blue are the ones I’m using, but at $50 each they’re competing against products like Lutron Caseta.
In some other places where it’s not just wanting the zigbee control, but also that the hardwired switch is in a stupid location, I’m using IKEA’s RODRET remote combined with their relatively cheap Zigbee bulbs, instead of Zigbee wall switches. They run on AAA batteries and seem to last quite a while, but I can’t say how long yet.
For plug-in lights where you just want on/off (garage strip lights for instance) their TRETAKT Zigbee outlet is a steal at $7. There’s a fancier version with energy monitoring too.
I sleep a little better knowing all my line voltage devices are from real brands with UL or equivalent testing, and the only cheap parts from mystery vendors with unknown certifications are 3V coin cell door sensors.
Don't recall if Shelly's default to 2 or 3 but I like that you can flash em to tasmota for a gaurenteed 3.
These days I’ve found that when in doubt get the device that is home kit approved. That usually ensures local only control. You have to fake it with home assistant, but it can be done with little fuss.
Depends on the kind of device though - I'm not so keen on changing switches for example and would not compromise there. But cameras or robot mops or voice assistant, throwaway stuff after warranty expires no matter who the source is.