A well-made steak and kidney pie is a thing of delight. Intensely savoury, great texture contrast between the pastry and the filling, lovely with thick-cut chips, ketchup and peas. And satisfyingly bad for you.

Even though kidneys are cheap offal and smell like piss before they're prepared, they do make the pie filling richer and tastier: plain steak pies aren't anywhere near as good. Don't know why.