I started in a worse-off team, but I moved to one since that succeeds and is insulated from politics. We're on the margin of the dependency graph and own our whole stack from pageview to database. We also have end-user customers, which gives us a North Star that seems to help.
Without denying any of your experience, there are many Amazons inside this big umbrella. Probably hundreds of autonomous (more or less) teams. The good and bad about working at a place like this are not evenly distributed. From what I've seen, when it's bad, it's really bad. But it can be good too.
My advice to job seekers would be: get some inside scoop on the right/wrong teams to join. Failing a person you can talk to, ask about the level of pager activity and how independent your team is. With high visibility and high rewards come high pressure. It was wrong for me and it could be wrong for you too.