The Katsuification of Britain
vittlesmagazine.com
vittlesmagazine.com
A similar phenomenon of culinary appropriation and adaptation might be the Nepali-run Indian restaurants in Japan. In the past twenty years or so, they have spread to nearly every corner of the country. Though independently owned and run, they have largely similar menus, with food that, I've read, would seem out of place in both Nepal and India.
A recent book in Japanese [1] does a good job of tracing their origins and their role in giving immigration and employment opportunities to Nepalis.
[1] https://shinsho.shueisha.co.jp/kikan/1208-n/
Addendum: After I posted the above, I counted in my head the number of Nepali/Indian restaurants within a twenty-minute walk of my home in Yokohama and came up with six (I’ve eaten at all of them). It turns out that there are several more. Here’s a map of my neighborhood with them marked:
https://www.gally.net/temp/20240823_Indian_Nepali_restaurant...
If anyone wants to see what they look like on Google Street View or search for others, here’s a link:
https://www.google.com/maps/search/%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%83%...
Probably none of them have katsu curry on the menu, though I have been to a few Nepali/Indian restaurants in Japan that did serve it—no doubt to appeal to less-adventurous Japanese tastes.
My absolute favorite is the curry as it’s made by Yayume sushi in San Ramon.
I can confirm that I have the same thing in my part of the US though. A lot of restaurants will offer sushi and ramen both on the menu, with some other dishes like katsu curry showing up here and there. I would say the best sushi/ramen places here do specialize (just like you said about Japan), but it's pretty common to see places which don't.
In fact, I'd never even heard of eating pork as anything other than well-done until I saw Gordon Ramsay cook a pork chop medium rare.
I think it's just down to people starting a 'foreign restaurant', there may just not be enough market for a specialty foreign food so you pack in a few popular dishes together and run a 'foreign country restaurant' instead of just a specialty place.
Certainly even in my corner of america (the pnw) where sushi is quite popular, we have a mix of places that just do sushi, or most do sushi and a few other dishes, or just a 'japanese restaurant'.
The exception would be if the restaurant is catering specifically or exclusively to the immigrant population. I’ve found this to be common in Vietnamese restaurants where it’s just a community hangout spot for the migrant workers.
Since you live in Yokohama, the entire town plays on stereotypes and tropes of what Japanese think of Chinese. Namely, all the fortune teller shops since the Japanese think Chinese people are mystical (the Western version is fortune telling machines feature an automata wearing a Turban or Gypsies).
I will say they got the look of pizza down but none of the flavor and texture is all wrong. Feels more like a quick and dirty homemade pizza using cheap canned super market ingredients. Maybe they need a fat guy named Sal from Queens to lend a hand. Maybe they just dont like the flavor or texture of proper pizza.
Was one of the more annoying parts of living there. You’d often have a place open, they’d get it “right”, then it either closes or they slowly change the food to fit the Japanese palette over time and the dish becomes a weird mirage.
There are a few exceptions - but that’s few and far between.
It's like the only thing they had to go on was a picture of what lasagna looks like.
Pretty much all food everywhere is cultural appropriated to some degree--authenticity when it comes to cuisine is essentially a meaningless term.
https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Curry-Sauce-Mild-Ounce/dp/B07B...
I can think of a few grocery stores here that have "Katsu Curry" at the to-go section - definitely not the finest example of the art, but still pretty good. It has been pretty popular in San Francisco for a long time. Although, the post-pandemic era, I've definitely noticed a large uptick in places that serve it. I can think of a few reasons why that is, due to SF's history and culture. I have very fond memories of my last job circa 2015 or so: waiting in line for Muraccis on Kearny.
It doesn't seem anything like what's going on in the UK at the moment, though. I hope that larger trend takes hold here, it really is one of my favorite comfort foods. Golden Curry is a staple in my home.
Also, I've not often seen it called Katsu Curry in the US. That is definitely a name that would be considered accurate, but more common I've heard might be "Japanese Curry" (an important distinction) or "curry rice". It is definitely the same food, though.
Yeah, you'll find it in Hawaii or New York as well
Regionally yes, there’s influence and history - but Seattle doesn’t do enough to protect subcultures.
I think it's more like if the Korean BBQ stuff were 100x what it is in the US plus the halapeno flavor sprinkled on everything --or, in other parts if the US dill-pickle flavoring on things.
In essence they out katsu-curry the Japanese in Japan because in Japan they have many more flavors to pick from, so aren't stuck on one.
Yeah, it's definitely crazy there.
though, the Torokeru and Kokumaro are in some quarters considered better, with Java the spiciest, Vermont the sweetest, and Golden the least remarkable
https://www.seriouseats.com/taste-test-japanese-curry-roux-m...
Premade S&B pouches is awesome camping/boating hack. It lasts ages and all you need to do is warm it up for few mins.
My favourite recent “discovery” (even if I visited Japan 4 times) is tonkatsu.
Last time I was in Hong Kong, I stayed in a hotel near Yau Ma Tei station. There were probably 5 or 6 Japanese fast-food restaurants mostly focussed on Katsu curry dishes within a few blocks walk down Nathan Road towards Mong Kok. Despite loving Chinese food, I actually had Katsu curry 3 nights in a row, it was so good there!
The newer tradition is British Indian Restaurant cuisine, which is mostly based on Bangladeshi cuisine adapted to British tastes by Bangladeshi immigrants. It's called "Indian" for marketing purposes. British Indian Restaurant cuisine is what most British people will think of if you just say "curry". Unlike Anglo-Indian and Japanese curry, it is not thickened with roux, instead using pureed onions as the main thickener. This is the one that includes chicken tikka masala.
For me are three distinct things
Japanese curry Japanese style of the Indian dish often made from an instant roux package and usually served over Japanese style white rice
Katsu Curry the same dish with a deep fried pork or chicken cutlet put on the the rice before the curry is poured over
Curry rice - no cutlet, the curry is mixed in with the rice before it's served.
If you haven't had a Japanese curry in Japan, and you didn't make it from scratch, whatever you get will be a poor imitation. Real Japanese curry tastes both fresh, simple, vegetal and clean, and artificial, at the same time.
If you care deeply about food and you haven't been to Japan, I can't recommend it enough. As a tourist I've never been anywhere else that's so easy to have a great meal. It used to be dirt cheap to fly there if you booked in advance, but I guess inflation and time has upped the price a bit.
(cheapest east coast round-trip is JFK-NRT @ $709, with Alaskan & JAL. if you want more bang for your buck, check Skiplagged; for $823 you can spend 14 hours in Atlanta and 23 hours in Vancouver, or for $1,100 spend 21 hours in Istanbul, or 23 hours in Seoul, or for $1,231 spend 21 hours in Honolulu, or for $1,334 spend 23 hours in Honolulu and 20 hours in Osaka)
Don't you mean short for katsuretsu (カツレツ), katakana for cutlet as adopted from the French?
> If you haven't had a Japanese curry in Japan, and you didn't make it from scratch, whatever you get will be a poor imitation. Real Japanese curry tastes both fresh, simple, vegetal and clean, and artificial, at the same time.
Meh. There are tons of diasporas across the world that would beg to differ; at the end of the day, it's inexpensive comfort food to this demographic.
Personally, I'm more picky with the panko and quality of pork. It's easy to mask imperfection with curry, and almost as easy to make something distinctly tasty on the cheap.
katsu is cutlet, tonkatsu is pork cutlet
katsu is short for katsuretsu, which shows every sign of being transliterated from English "cutlet" and especially pleasureable, the two "su"s are this guy ツ
I used to push back hard on this and get annoyed with it, words have meanings let's use them correctly!
But over time I've changed my opinion. In Japan Katsu may mean something specific, but in the UK it means something different. That's language evolving, and that's a natural process. Pushing back on language changing in normal ways isn't going to achieve anything, it's an uphill battle, and it results in less clear communication because it often involves ignoring who the target audience is and treating them like another audience.
By all means correct someone who is using a word incorrectly, but trying to correct a language because it's different to the previous iteration is a lost battle.
(No comment on the food reviews though, you're absolutely right that the "real stuff" is far better.)
Look at what in the US today is called a macaroon, a macaron, and some macaroni. Which one of those is closer to the ‘original’ Italian culinary meaning of maccherone?
If I'm in Japan for a week it's all sushi, ramen, soba, and yakiniku. There's no time for curry!
I'm gonna stake a claim and say that if you go and buy a pack of golden curry medium, cut up a decent bit of rump steak, add a couple of carrots, potatoes and onions, boil the shit out of all that then mix in the curry, serve on fresh cooked rice with a handful of shredded cheddar - you're having a pretty damn good curry which will be hard to beat no matter where you go.
I'll also go out on a limb and claim that the baseline Japanese cuisine in cities with a decent size diaspora - think LA, Sydney, Bangkok - is better than in Tokyo. You have enough locals to support a lot of restaurants, and they enforce an authentic taste because they know what it should taste like, and they have more money. Your average plate will cost more, but everything in it, and the final result, is better quality.
If you look at Chinese restaurants in the UK, the older ones have radically different menus to the newer ones that cater primarily to Chinese students. The former is mostly based on Cantonese cuisine, but changed significantly to what Westerners expect, the latter is from all over China and usually pretty authentic.
Of course, everything tastes better after a 12 hours on a plane.
My favorite is volcano curry in SF. My go-to was pork with calamari but the stopped the calamari at some point. They have fried oysters though so I throw those on.
The most annoying thing about good katsu is when the cutlet is obviously unsalted.
My current favourite katsu place is Kokoro in Liverpool. Always hits the spot.
However it is most excellent.
https://tradewindsorientalshop.co.uk/products/maykway-mild-c...
I could probably make a 'The x-ification of Britain' for quite a lot of food items. Majority of brits in the comments echoing the sentiment.
Also, that site should probably do something about the botted comments?
So I was about to dismiss the article but the really interesting part is further down. Katsu curry is really British anyway! This makes sense when you think about it a bit. The British nicked all the delicious food from Indian at a time when British food was "boil vegetables for an hour, discard the veg and drink the water". That's where things like HP sauce, pickles, chutneys etc come from and, of course, "curry powder". There's no such thing as curry powder in India (confusingly there's the unrelated curry leaves). It was just anglicised Indian flavours. Of course they would make a starch thickened sauce with it...
If anything I've seen the fried chicken with panko much more than the katsu curry sauce.
There are far superior forms of "katsu" out there, the greatest being the chicken Katsudon or chicken Katsu egg don.
I'll fight anyone that disagrees.
Certainly chicken is increasingly popular, fish and chips is almost a boutique food these days since fish is expensive and also very easy to make badly. Whereas chicken is cheaper and easier https://archive.is/Mu1DL
E.g. https://www.publix.com/pd/publix-potato-chips-kettle-cooked-... (one of the things pictured is in the bag; the other is not)
Do you also believe that gerber should remove pictures of cute babies from their baby food bottles?
That means surprising flavours get a chance to be tested on the open, instead of the heavier gatekeeping happening until now.
We got pea based crisps, that seemed ridiculous at first, but it was incredible.
Two products. Both made from potato. One is texturally crisp. Let’s call that a ‘crisp’. The other one isn’t. Let’s call that a ‘chip’.
It’s worse here in Australia. They have to call chips ‘hot chips’ to differentiate them from crisps!
Insanity, people. There’s no logic here. We’re all rational people.
Crisps are crisp.
Chips are the other ones.
/s
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