I never do it because I don't really see the point of paying money for something that will immediately go into a landfill, but it's always tempting.
Fun stuff to watch on a boring afternoon.
It's only fraud if the description mentions new and original. :)
You can look on Craigslist as well, especially if you live in a large metro area (I live in NYC so it's easy to find lots of corporate surplus). Companies will often need to upgrade all their infra and liquidate their equipment. My printer is a giant nearly 20 year old HP office thing that I got for $30 + $100 for the Uber back home from an office that did a full IT renewal.
Description:
This item is upgraded by 32 GB Pen Flash Drive to 2TB
32GB-2TB, the actual capacity is 32G, the computer displays 2TB, the detection is also 2TB, more than 32G things can be stored, but not displayed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234810575961
That's not bad. Most counterfeits I get are just 2GB so hardly useful. Still, the counterfeit firmware makes compatibility issues more likely, so better to buy one without the counterfeiting.That's certainly an interesting way to phrase it. I use /dev/null for a similar purpose with the added benefit that it can store petabytes of data, but sadly we don't have the technology to display it yet.
Surely they write this to cover their ass when people don't read the entire listing.
Some scam SSDs are smaller drives with hacked controller firmware that is bright enough to avoid detection with quick scans - you have to write beyond the real capacity then re-read to confirm corruption.
Note that I was warning about quick tests, I'll have to try “f3probe --destructive” on something next time I have some playtime to see whether I'd consider that quick! Of course, it could be much quicker than the full capacity write some tools use to find a defective or deceptive drive¹² but quicker and quick aren't the same.
If a quick test says the drive is fake then it is, and many fakes can be detected these ways, but it takes more to convincingly state a drive isn't fake.
--
[1] Only a little over true capacity should be needed for that, in the case where writes to anywhere up to capacity will work (which is common as creating a filesystem more complex than FAT/exFat often requires activity similar to what quick write/read heuristics do).
... unless/until the underlying flash fails. Which it probably will; there's every reason to expect these drives are made with the cheapest, worst flash available.
no, that's not honest, farthest thing from it, that's what makes it an actual scam. by having that in the fine print, you can't return it, and they won't be flagged.
In my experience, eBay won't "flag" dishonest sellers of counterfeit storage products, anyhow. I tried to get a listing selling counterfeit Samsung micro SD drives taken down, but eBay did nothing. I was refunded, but the unsuspecting will continue to be duped.
It's also a fact of life that there is a gigantic amount of room between "not fully accurate" and "blatant lie"
"Honest"?
I used to buy 2GB drivers all the time. The only reason I stopped is because it's hard to find anybody selling them.
It's plenty of space for a portable drive, it's enough for a Linux installation, it has lots and lots of uses.
But I wouldn't buy a 2GB driver that pretends to be larger. At least not willingly.
RHEL9 installer is 10GB.
There's even SLC USB drives being advertised, an otherwise extremely overpriced item these days, with sellers posting the exact part numbers and pictures of the insides as evidence. Those may be using recycled flash.
The SSD wasn't great, it was pretty slow, but it did work, and I have used it in conjunction with a USB SATA adapter as something where I can write lots and lots of tiny files for projects I work on [1], and where I don't particularly care if I break it. Surprisingly, it's still holding up...pretty good for free!
[1] One project I've done involves breaking up video files into a picture of every frame, then do some kind of image processing, write the new files, and then glue them back together, which means there can be a ton of writes on there that I don't want to be done on the expensive and irreplaceable internal SSD on my Mac.
TLC flash is currently less than $0.10/GB. $3 will probably get you a 32GB drive with flash of dubious quality.
Select the 1-star reviews. Usually someone helpfully posts proof of the scam.
It's not a 100% foolproof way to determine if a vendor or product is fake, but it is helpful. There are some other things you can do to double check things as well. [2]
[2] https://www.wired.com/story/how-to-spot-fake-reviews-amazon/
[1] This was a couple years ago, maybe things got streamlined? Of my cards that don't have a foreign transaction fee, Aliexpress wants the phone number off the back of one, which is sketchy; no thanks. The second one, charges don't go through, and the issuer customer service can't even see the attempts; I have to ask them to disable security on my card for ~ 30 minutes, and then the charges go through. Billing showed from England, IIRC. Doesn't (edit: Didn't! thanks) support any intermediates I do (paypal/amazon pay) which is usually my goto for low trust transactions.
I entered my card number with them years ago and it just works.
What I hate is their login and search - both horribly broken.
But as to why, it's a better selection than Amazon for many things (for example components) and usually cheaper.
Dropping the merchant is a bonus.
> Through a chargeback, your bank can try to get your money back from the seller on your behalf it isn’t a legal right, but your bank is committed to helping you, and will treat any claim fairly.
https://www.visa.co.uk/how-you-pay-matters/chargeback-purcha...
> When a customer disputes a debit or credit card transaction, the card issuer must determine whether to provide that cardholder with a refund for the transaction amount—also known as a chargeback.
https://b2b.mastercard.com/news-and-insights/blog/what-is-a-...
> A chargeback is a rules-based mechanism, with time-sensitive workflows, that enables the issuer and the acquirer to determine the financial liability of a disputed transaction.
https://www.mastercard.us/content/dam/public/mastercardcom/n...
> A chargeback occurs when, after investigation of the dispute, we debit your account for the amount of the disputed transaction and credit the Card Member with this amount.
https://www.americanexpress.com/au/merchant/chargebacks-and-...
Notice none of them talk about it being a feedback mechanism. Because it's not. It's a refund mechanism used as a last resort.
you've just skipped over then entire part where the websites are freely refunding and not denying refund claims making the last resort of a chargeback entirely unnecessary
Whether or not a website does refunds on their own does not change the definition of a chargeback in any way shape or form.
So the blind advice of making a chargeback claim before making a refund/RMA type of request with the seller is really out of order in the steps to take.
> So the blind advice of making a chargeback claim before making a refund/RMA type of request with the seller is really out of order in the steps to take.
That wasn’t even your point in the first comment. It was that chargebacks don’t do what they say they do. Way to move the goalposts when your initial point was clearly proven wrong.
Sometimes it's trivial to prove, like CMOS opamp with +6V absolute max Vcc supply happily working at +40V.
Double take
What was going on with that one?