Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)
locksmithledger.com
locksmithledger.com
There was a very old sticker on the safe bearing the name of the company who apparently installed it. The phone number was so old it did not have an area code. Fortunately the company still existed after multiple decades. I called them and asked if they could open it in a non-destructive way. One of their technicians came, looked at it and probed it for a couple hours, but determined he could not open it. And the combination had been changed from the manufacturer's default. He gave me the contact info for a reputed safe technician who could help.
Later I called this safe technician, but he was incredibly difficult to get a hold of. I had to leave multiple voicemails and send multiple emails. We chatted briefly one time and he said he would get back to me later to schedule an appointment. But he seemed half-retired and not interested in the job, as I never heard back, despite multiple contact attempts and my offer to pay handsomely. Eventually I became frustrated with his non-responsiveness and stopped caring about the safe.
Fast forward a few years later, I was going to sell the vacation home, but I really wanted to open the safe before selling. Curiosity had gotten to me. I searched online for another safe technician, and found a supposedly reliable guy. I arranged an appointment. He showed up a few days later. I asked him to open it any way he could, even if he had to destroy the safe. He started drilling, making multiple holes over the course of 2 hours. Eventually he came to me and said he ran out of drill bits as they all got worn out. He had to leave and promised he would be back.
It took one week for him to eventually come back early one morning with more drill bits. He spent another couple hours drilling. Then he put a camera scope in the holes and claimed he could see 3 of the 5 wheels spin while the other 2 were broken. He spent an entire day trying to manipulate the wheels. But after a whole day of work, he came to me with a defeated look and apologized saying he was sorry but he doesn't think he is able to open the safe.
I went back online to find yet another professional who could help. I learned that what I really needed to look for is a professional who is a member of SAVTA (Safe & Vault Technicians Association). So I found a SAVTA tech who on the phone told me a TL-15 safe in a residence is unusual as it is normally made for businesses like a jewelry store. Unfortunately he said his next availability would be about a month from now, and I was going to sell the house in the coming weeks.
Eventually I found another SAVTA tech who was available on a short notice. He and a colleague both arrived a morning, and it took them 3 hours to do more drilling and more manipulation to FINALLY open the safe.
Guess what was in it?
Nothing. It was empty! I closed the sale of the house literally 2 weeks later. I was still very relieved to have gone through this hassle to open it. The unsatisfied curiosity if it had not been open would have eaten me alive :) Also I decided in my next house I wanted a safe rated TL-15, as clearly they can withstand a lot.
(Good story, and have an HN Buck.)
Reminds me of this: https://blackbag.toool.nl/?p=31
The politician owner was not a "US senator" but a "state senator", IOW not a member of the US Senate but of the state senate. So not as prestigious as you think :)
I actually would guess that replacing the damaged door would put that back in operation and would make for a cool perk for selling the house, but with that much steel(?) I can't imagine how much such a stunt would cost
If it contained $100,000 in cash, the smart thing to do is say it was empty.
https://mbausa.com/content/downloadfiles/8077_Combo_Recovery...
https://mbausa.com/s-g-padlock-combo-recovery-set/
Compare with the easy change procedure for dials: https://homelandsafes.com/how-to-change-the-combination-on-a...
Often to enter the first digit you often have to turn the wheel four full revolutions, the second digit three full revolutions and so on. So users will be trying to spin it pretty fast under normal operation.
Of course there are other solutions to autodialers. For example, making sure burglers can't spend 3 days with the safe waiting for the autodialer to run.
https://www.sparrowslockpicks.ca/product_p/sdial.htm
(Sparrows makes good stuff, but note how the .com website doesn't list where they are actually located. The .ca is out and proud about their real address.)
If you know how many digits and the Left-Right pattern, wouldn’t this be the best way to do this, assuming you have a week to run it?
Cracker: "So I brute forced your safe"
Customer: "I asked you not to damage it!"
Cracker: "No damage. The combo is 27, 32, 14"
Regarding electronic safe locks, I found the following videos really fascinating
* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXFpCV646E0 - Side channel attacks on high security electronic safe locks
* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viU8Qs1Sccg - No Mas How Side Channel Flaw Opens ATM Pharmacies and Gov to Attack
I should figure out where to begin, do I bring the safes to the locksmiths, how are the safes disposed of, et al? It should be interesting.
You could also find how much they weigh, and how much they should weigh, and if that's the same leave them for someone you don't like.
You are a person who is easily manipulated by marketing, and clearly has zero practical experience in this field. I do. There are no epoxys that are good to 500F. None of them. See username, Buildsjets. The epoxy resins that we build jets out of are cured in an autoclave under high pressure, and at best they are good to 350F, and they are absolutely the highest performing epoxy resins you can buy from the likes of Hexcel, Toray, and other industrial companies that do not distribute though Home Depot. To go higher than 350 you need to go to more exotic and toxic resin systems like Bismaelemide, and we don’t like to do that because they are ITAR restricted, so we could not tell our foreign customers how to repair their aircraft when they broke. Dispose-a-plane.
If JB weld were actually good to 500F, we would be building aircraft parts out of it. But, if it were actually good to 500F, it would be ITAR controlled and Bubbas would not be able to buy it at Home Depot.
To your comment about difficulty of removal, JB weld does not melt. No epoxys melt. They are thermosets, not a thermoplastics. But it degrades at around 250f to the point where you can pick it apart with a mild steel pick. I know, because I have done it. The heat-sinking effect of the surrounding steel is negligible when compared to a 3,500F MAPP torch flame directly impinging on the epoxy.
The highest temperature ordinary structural epoxy adhesive I know of is Lord 310, which claims to be good to 400°F (205°C). No idea if it's any good though, that project went another path so we never opened the tube I bought.