How Cathode Ray Tubes Work [video]
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I feel like I have a much better basic understanding of CRTs now. They felt like utter magic before. Now it just feels a bit like magic. The only thing that still confuses me is how the electron gun itself actually works. I don't really get how electrons are being shot at all and why we can shoot them in a beam.
Looks like there are some commercial products like that as well.
With a VGA signal, a pulse on the vsync line tells the monitor to start at the top left. A pulse on the hsync line tells the monitor to move down a row. In between those pulses, the analog values of the RGB values determine the color as the beam scans left to right. The CRT is dumb -- it's up to the device sending the signal to time the pixel values correctly so they hit the screen as the beam scans over the correct spot on the screen. If you were making a device that needed to display analog video, you'd have to make sure the signal you were outputting would make the electron gun fire at the right time. (e.g.: http://www.tinyvga.com/vga-timing)
> How does it move so fast?
They're electromagnets, so they move in sync with the timed signal sent to them.
Here's a video demonstrating how to do a full setup (calibration) on a vintage color CRT (timestamp 16:02 for the start of the procedure): https://youtu.be/Oeylkj1vap8?t=962
CRTs are yet another circuit component. They rely on electrons moving or getting stored in them to "work". If you increase the voltage, the electrons will move faster through the gun and crash into the phosphor coating with more kinetic energy. Or one can increase the current i.e. the number of electrons hitting the CRT per unit of time. Both results in a brighter spot. Both requires one to increase voltage of some circuit at some point of the upstream.
Since the TV signals are also an observable piece of voltage information, which we receive via an antenna, we can create circuits that are capable of detecting that voltage and simply act on its strength. We can create a circuit that acts when a higher voltage level is observed and cause the dot to be brighter.
We can create a circuit that has repetitive behvaior like changing the magnetic field in the deflection coils such that it periodically moves left to right. So it will draw a line.
We can also create circuits that act on time-dependent behavior like the voltage dipping down for a tiny fraction of a second to a level that cannot produce a dot. So we can detect when we should move the deflection coil's magnetic field slightly downwards to draw the next line. Or even bigger dip to reset the position all the way to top.
When you combine all those circuits into one big Rube-Goldberg machine and adjust the thousands of literal and figurative knobs, you'll get a TV.
I built one of those bottle accelerators but with some mods using a smaller Stuart's soda bottle. Cathode is a 0.5 in diameter Al spacer bushing mounted to one end of a 0.25 inch aluminum tube punched through a rubber stopper and the other to a tube adapter screwed to a KF25 vac flange. I then rigged up a stand to hold a vacuum manifold connected to my Alcatel 2008 vac pump and could pull a nice vacuum down to 0.4 Pa. The bottle gun's anode is a loop of 12 AWG copper wire inserted into a drilled hole and sealed with Faraday wax (safe and easy to make but messy and does not easily clean up.) Finally, wired it to my 200W Bertan +10kV 20mA supply. The +10kV lets me setup the gun as a common cathode putting the electron gun parts at ground potential. Only the anode is at high potential. I then decided to see if I could focus the beam and MacGyverd a lens out of a big 2 inch conduit bushing I had lying around in the electrics bin. Wound a bunch of 20 AWG magnet wire around it and found that building a big enough field to focus and sat it around the bottle neck. That big hunk of steel took a crap ton more power than I thought - I could focus the beam to midway of the bottle at around 300W (30V DC @ 10A)into the focus lens (yes it got very hot)! At full beam power I can melt holes in tin foil sheet using a focused beam.
But god were they heavy.
So, if evolution had continued, _I think_ we'd have marginally lighter and more efficient displays with HDMI et al and the surrounding electronics and the "smart" features seen on modern screens.
Granted, I was a much younger man when I moved it in but I kind of can't believe I did it by myself with only the help of a skateboard and some movers' straps. It's a wonder I didn't kill myself or the set. There's no way I'm doing that again.
Mine has been in its current position for about five years. I was being slightly hyperbolic about being much younger -- but it was pre-40 and pre-kids, so not too much.
In this technology, each pixel has its own tiny electron emitter, thus the display is like a grid of tiny CRTs. It allowed for CRT-quality contrast and color reproduction but with the size and weight of an LCD system, with similar power draw if not less.
But LCDs are cheaper to produce, and they just sucked all the oxygen out of the market.
But it's not needed as OLED combines the benefits of both but better. OLED just has to go down in price...