Switching to black on white makes it easier (there's an option in the corner). In general, though, I like the thought and effort that went into it. The Verge does these sorts of one-time article layouts semi-frequently and I tend to appreciate how they augment the reading.
Agreed:
.cell * { color: black !important; }
.cell:not(.lede) { background-color: white !important; background-image: none !important; height: auto !important; border: 0 !important; }
And the font family
It helped me to wake up a little
Closed it as soon as I saw that green. Just a bad design.