Arlene Blum is another mountaineer author worth mentioning. She's written about her expeditions including Annapurna I, as well as her work as a chemist campaigning to ban toxic flame retardant from upholstery.
Annapurna A Woman’s Place and Breaking Trail. The first is about the namesake first American expedition to the top which she led, the second is her memoir. Both great reads, thankfully lacking much of the big headed bravado of other mountaineering books.