I don't disagree with you on the review being balanced overall or having merit. It's more the framing, very hyperbolic as you say. They all have "worst product ever reviewed" in the title perhaps it's the only way to stay relevant to the algorithms these days.
Don't have time to go look for one. But can think of many occasions they'd mention the manufacturer has promised to update and improve this and then give them a free pass on whatever gimmicky aspect of the product they're looking at, usually software. Overlooking that aspect rather than lambasting them.
I mean perhaps a slight stretch, but their coverage of the Apple Vision Pro, have they had much reason to use it, aside from the demos? There's also some UX issues mentioned but they're given a free pass as they expect Apple to improve it with time.
They'll say "not there yet" rather than "worst product ever".