For me the game mechanics as such are "random". Because you can't discover them by just playing (imho).
At the same time the game is ruled by a dice. (So even the best players will fail almost 50% of the time which is almost as random as tossing a coin, and strictly not skill based).
> Given that AIs can play hundreds of thousands of runs in the time it would take me to play one, I'm a bit more optimistic that they could learn the mechanics eventually.
My gut feeling says the opposite. How do you infer any kind of rules from almost random events? Especially if the "logic" behind the "non random" parts is actually also quite made up and arbitrary (so in a sense also "random", even to people with reason).
An "exploration-based reward function" wouldn't be enough. Because this would assume that exploration has (more or less) deterministic outcomes. But given the dice in Nethack it actually does not! You can do "everything right" and still die in almost 50% of the cases. How to infer any meaningful "world model" from such events? Imho you can't.
(I can confirm that looking up spoilers will let you make progress in Nethack. That's why I think it's boring. I've tried hundred of times prior to looking up spoilers and didn't make any progress. But after biting the bullet and starting reading some walkthough it was actually quite easy to reach some deeper levels. Until I've hit the next invisible wall. Which would require again some out-of-band knowledge… I know that reading the next spoilers would also make this wall go away. But I've lost any interest in this game after finding out exactly this: It's impossible to play without a walkthough; and with a full walkthough it's actually considerably easy, and comes down to "just having luck". At this point I could just toss a coin to determine whether "I won". That's maximally boring. I don't like dice games; and the exploration part in Nethack leads nowhere because the world is arbitrarily made up. You can't discover the mechanics without already knowing them…)