(P.S. Just to head off a possible diction issue - biomimetics just means taking something from nature as inspiration for doing something, it doesn't mean the reverse which is to "try to understand / emulate nature completely well". E.g. solar panels arranged on a stalk to maximize light is acceptably biomimetic and there is no issue about whether solar panels are faithful enough to model chloroplasts.)
I'm coming from the context of theoretical models of computation, of which there are only so many general ones - Turing machines, lambda calculus, finite state machines, neural networks, Petri nets, a bunch of other historical ones, ... etc. etc. Consider just two, the Turing machine model, versus the most abstract possible neural network. We know that the two are formally computationally equivalent.
Abstractly, the distinguishing feature of theoretical neural networks is that they do computations through graphs. Our brains are graphs (and graphs with spatial constraints as well as many other constraints and things). The actually-existing LLMs are graphs.
Consider, C++ code is not only better modeled by the not-graph Turing machine model, it is also easily an instance of a Turing machine. These man-made computers are instances as well as modeled by von-Neumann architectures, which can be thought of as a real implementation of the Turing machine model of computation proper.
I think this conceptual relationship could be the same for biological brains. They are doing some kind of computable computation. They are not only best modeled by some kind of extremely sophisticated - but computable - neural network model of computation that nobody knows how to define yet (well, Yann LeCun has some powerpoint slides about that apparently). They are also an instance of that highly abstract, theoretical model. It's a consequence of the Church-Turing thesis which I generally buy (because of aforementioned equivalence, etc.): if one thinks the lambda calculus is a better model than neural network for the human brain, I'd like to see it! (It turns out there are cellular models of computation as well, called membrane models.) But that's the granularity I'm interested in.
In different words, the fact that many neural network models (rather, metamodels like "the category of all LLMs") can be bad models or rudimentary models is not a dealbreaker in my opinion, since that is analogous to focusing on implementation details. The goal of scientific research (along the neural network paradigm) would be to try sort that out further (in the form of theory and proofs, in opposition to further "statistical tinkering"). Hope that argument wasn't too handwavy.