Expensive fridges are dying, leading to fraud claims
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- An impeller-based washer that doesn't cover clothes in water, even with the "deep water" setting, and soil level all the way up. It frequently doesn't submerge half the stuff during the pre-soak. It's a $1,000 washer and I routinely pour water into it from the sink.
- A fridge with a giant ice maker in the refrigerator, not in the freezer. The compresser runs like 90% of the day on this thing. It's not really obvious how or where it's supposed to exchange heat. I expect it to break any day.
I spent some time on home appliance YouTube trying to figure out what was going on with appliances these days. Can recommend this guy's channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKJgYVhZ6-w. Long story short, it's a total mess out there. Sad times in the world of modern convenience.
> and even a miswired 220 on the dryer
Wow!
The whole fun was using the coins! I even bothered looking up how to reset the cost so it was only a dollar, too many coins was annoying.
But while it will run forever, it also consumes 5,000 watts and pumps conditioned air out of my house the entire time it's running (when my vent isn't clogged, which is never). I replaced it with a heat pump dryer and love it. Yes, it's 1000 times more complicated, and yes, it may (will?) require repair at some point, but it plugs in to a 120-volt outlet, and requires no venting at all. Maybe I won't love it in a decade, but life is short. :D
We'll probably go this route when this thing inevitably dies. This is the way to go unless you're a big ice consumer, which neither me nor my wife are.
We have one of these on our ancient fridge. In a way, it actually makes sense - a lot of the stresses of an ice maker are having all of the mechanics being forced to operate in freezing temperatures.
Not saying it's done that way, but many fridges now keep the fridge part cold by venting freezer air into the fridge (if set wrong, you can freeze things in the right part of the fridge).
I am probably going to lean toward separate freezer and fridge next time.
The ice maker compartment alone is responsible for a significant amount of cooling in the rest of the fridge, and it's very uneven as a result, but it works okay.
While the maker itself is super happy in these conditions, you will get problems if you do not regularly use ice. If you let the ice pile up it ironically is too good of an insulator and causes the stuff on the bottom to melt and refreeze. So you need to run that auger once in a while and make sure it doesn't dam up in there.
I can go into more detail if you want. But to be clear I'm not making any claims on how long it will last.
I was under an impression that they should ideally run continuously if you want them to last long (and operate efficiently.) Meanwhile on-off cycling was just the only way they could maintain a temperature setpoint before somebody had a bright idea of combining them with an inverter.
Start and stop tends to cost a lot of energy, and high speed also tend to need more power. High speed also does more wear. Overall though, a small compressor on high speed 100% of the time is better than a larger compressor on lower speeds most of the time - but that isn't a realistic option as there are too many variables to allow choosing the perfect compressor size. So a oversized compressor running at low speed most of the time is generally best.
I think the fridge thing is because they discovered that a compressor that runs all the time lets them get a smaller one, and since it doesn't start/stop as much, it lasts longer, so it can be weaker. The ice maker is probably actually doing the work of keeping the fridge cold.
It's crap, in my experience, once it starts not working perfectly. As long as it's working, it's ok.
My Samsung lasted like 3 years before it started freezing up the ice maker and eventually it started failing during cooling. We dealt with throwing away food, defrosting it, replacing the evaporator fan, keeping a constant eye on it before we finally ditched it for a Bosch (haven’t had it long enough to say if that was a good move).
So much waste, it’s crazy how poor quality these fridges are.
What an awful fridge.
Terrible design. Won't be buying Samsung again.
Try running through the process and double the duration of every step, and don't skip any steps, and it should stop leaking.
Alternatively throw the damn thing in the garbage.
I cleared mine out, all happy, and 3 months later it clogged back again. I don't bother fixing it because I need to remove all the contents of the fridge, then dissassemble the inside rear of the fridge to get access to the right spot. It's just a bad design.
For mine I had to flush it with a syringe of warm water to thaw out the drain port. The hard part is getting to the drain hole. Also, the fix lasted 6 months or so before it iced over again. I'm out of warranty so I might just run a much larger line and call it a day.
If your lucky your issue might just be a blockage, which should clear easily.
Also, without being an engineer or technician, it did always seem to me that fridges were like cars in that you had "luxury" models that were standard frames with fancy (often less-than-useful) features, and then actual luxury with brand names most people had never heard of, which had normal features implemented to a high standard and with excellent support.
As a consumer, would there be a way to tell the difference between the two when buying?
At some point, we're going to hit a tipping point where no authentic human being ever writes any online review, and then they'll become totally useless, pure noise. That doesn't seem to be the case yet, though.
For example, commercial laundry equipment comes from VERY FEW manufacturers, and you may never have heard of UniMac https://unimac.com/product/washer-extractors/uw-series-high-... but you probably have heard of their little brother, Speed Queen. Blendtec is another example.
But some things are vastly different between commercial and residential. Commercial ovens often have no heat shielding at all (because they're meant to be installed in a commercial kitchen and used all the time) and so the sides can get very hot. Not what you want in a home kitchen!
You can find some names, and check what they offer in residential versions.
But the surest way is to find people who work with them talking about them.
Parts websites for appliances can be good hints.
That said, I bought a Samsung mid-range french door fridge from BestBuy as we aren't doing a fancy built-in at this point in our lives.
Meanwhile I have a $1k Samsung refurb that has worked flawlessly for 8 years. We’re thinking about re-doing our high-end home kitchen and it’s hard to figure out what brand will be good - but Sub Zero is mostly off the list.
At this point the only thing that doesn't work is the speed selector indicator as the rubber band that connects the indicator to the selector switch failed and parts are no longer available. Compatible bags and filters, however, are still produced. Definitely not much in the way of planned obsolescence in this one ...
I was less impressed with their standing vacuum, honestly. It held up OK but frequently jammed and had little issues. We eventually replaced it with a Dyson cordless that seems much much better.
Certainly isn't cheaper for my Miele dishwasher that is broken (online search suggests a fucked relay).
I am somewhat cynical about buying expensive "quality" brands after being burnt a few times.
You and me both. I am (was?) a big believer of "buy it for life" because I don't like producing waste and I like the peace of mind of owning high quality, reliable equipment that doesn't break (% regular maintenance and wear parts)
But these days it seems like the only options available are paying $10 for a $10-quality product, paying $100 for a $20 quality product, or paying $1000 for a $50 quality product, none of which are appealing. I dread buying anything that's expected to last more than a year.
So I'd be surprised the the pattern hasn't always been like this to some extent. The particular rates might vary over time, but the pattern of failing appliances being either relatively new or really old is probably very consistent.
Across different homes, different appliances, different brands, and different vendors it is always a disaster.
Dishwashers especially since they touch cabinetry, plumbing, and electrical.
I would pay an "A Team" premium to have an entire squad come deliver and do all work to accommodate installation.
I've had just about everything go wrong:
* fridge installer taking 3 tries to send enough guys to lift a giant fridge up stairs (2, then 2 again, then finally 4)
* Finding out my condo counters are ADA accessible special short height that is 3/8 of an inch too short to fit 90% of DWs without carpentry work
* DW installer leaving, wanting a plumber to replace water line before continuing
* DW installer leaving, wanting electrician to do hardwire/outlet work before continuing
* DW repair guy leaving, because he couldn't figure how to pull the dishwasher clear of a tile floor ridge
* DW repair guy disconnecting my kitchen sink water line, breaking a part making it unusable unless I made it to the hardware store across town closing in 10 minutes
* Plumber knocking DW door off the spring hinge mechanism so it just drops like a rock now
Basically theres 3-5 different specialists that all need each others work done in a particular order and possibly to do re-work after one of the others breaks something, every every time.
The new dishwasher had only about and inch of space and even after sticking in a layer of nomex insulation test runs of the cooktop with a thermal probe sited on the top of the dishwasher's insides revealed that I couldn't use any settings beyond medium without hitting questionable levels. The cooktop's associated oven put the whole question to rest soon after by bursting into flames due to a wiring failure. (This apparently period appropriate setup for small kitchens placed the dishwasher at the bottom with with cooktop above it and then a small oven on top with a integrated exhaust system underneath and on top of the oven - actually pretty handy).
For the last 5 years, I buy appliances from a small independent dealer rather than a big box store. I have a guys name, and it’s the same guy year after year. Their prices are as good or slightly better than you’d see at a big box retailer.
And the repair guy was the Bosch official warranty service guy for apparently all of Long Island. I found this out when he announced he was going on vacation as he left and we wouldn't be able to get the DW compute board replaced until he returned.
Home Depot warranty paid for a replacement and we still loved the size and features so we got the same model. Ended up selling the house and only a few weeks later the new owner wanted me to rush over the warranty paperwork because the same thing had happened. This one lasted less than a year.
I will never buy another refrigerator without an extended warranty.
Are there similar industry-wide issues with fridges, or is this just a matter of one crappy company?
We decided to get a $700 Whirlpool, but that started making weird noises almost immediately (like a bad fan bearing).
I have tried recording the sounds from my phone but its too difficult. Does anyone recommend a consumer-level vibration-analysis product? Something you could stick to your fridge, etc, for days, weeks, and it detects and records outlier noises, etc?
I will refer to Consumer Reports once I start shitting golf balls.
Otherwise they're a decent place to maybe start but they're definitely not the be all-end-all.
What I do is search until I find a forum of people who obsess over whatever it is. Here's my plumbing one: https://www.terrylove.com/crtoilet.htm
I think the products are optimized for the tests, not long-term ownership. Rigors of ownership are what you see reflected in the comments.
Like Bose QC45s. Feel nice. Sound great. Works well overall, for the first year. Then the firmware started acting up, mic stops working during Zoom calls, and getting secondary pairing to work correctly makes breeding pandas look easy.
Rtings is expanding pretty rapidly to things not screens, and they bring a much more scientific and modern approach to consumer device testing.
I've taken to, when at all possible, buying machines that are older (20 years or more) because those tend to work well, can be reasonably repaired, and lack those crazy undesirable features that seem to be implemented instead of implementing quality.
I think the main issue holding back quality is that people move so often. If you buy a quality appliance and then sell your home early on in the life cycle the buyer probably won't value the quality appliance and is instead hoping to see new appliances.
The worst example of this is kitchen remodels; the average kitchen that is remodeled is not falling apart and absolutely unusable; it's usually a 7-10 year old kitchen that just doesn't "look right".
Cars are an appliance that is more expensive, but they last 20 years these days (average age of a car on the road today is 12 years).
It's actually informative to spend a day where everything you look at, you think about how old it is. This includes things like doors, windows, floors, etc. Most are much older than you might think.
It depends on the thing, but in general I don't think that assumption is terribly valid. The problem is that "viable" and "maximally profitable" are two different things. Companies have decided to chase the latter exclusively -- but that's a choice to satisfy short-term greed, it's not a reflection on what a viable business has to look like.
I think it's more reflective of how much the exercise of capitalism has degraded since those times.
I remember a guys essay about buying a new toaster. Turned out all the toasters he looked at had the exact same commodity mechanism. $15 toaster, $80 toaster they're the same inside.
If it were up to me any appliance that's under 10 years old that gets dropped off at the dump would be shipped to the manufacturer at their expense to dispose of. Bonus the dump charges them a handling fee.
It would be nice if someone had an incentive to differentiate for people willing to pay more.
If you want reliability, buy appliances like you're a landlord.
I replaced it with the cheapest washer Lowe's had for $425 and it's been painless for years. It's what a landlord would have done.
Tech for domestic life hasn't advanced since the 1970s. We have self-driving cars, but you still have to fold your own laundry.
I think tech for domestic life has clearly regressed since the 1970s.
Samsung usually disappoints but their AirDresser (and the LG Studio) are innovative at least.
The issue I've seen is, especially for out of warranty equipment, they're in a pretty tough spot: if they diagnose it as a part swap, and put a couple hours in diagnostics and part swap, and it doesn't fix it, the customer is unlikely to be happy with throwing that money away, and may not want to continue that process. So is the shop going to eat it?
For example: I have a Samsung inductive range. Love it. But, a couple years ago 2 of the elements stopped working. Unlike an old resistive range, the entire rangetop is a "sealed" unit, cost of probably north of a grand. Inside that unit are some boards and other items that can be replaced, but now you're talking another hour to get into. There are 3-4 boards in there, running $200-300 for the likely candidates.
In researching this, I found field repair techs were strongly recommending just replacing the whole range. Because the cost of a tech doing the repair is a grand+ plus a couple hours, or 4 hours and rolling the dice on which board needs replacement, possibly having to do it twice with house calls between hardware orders.
Or, the third option is to get a tech in that can disassemble the range and diagnose the likely bad solder joint and reflow it... That's the option I selected, because me and my 13yo son were the techs. BUT, no repair shop is going to want to risk doing that.
So, just throw away the range and get a new one is what they recommand.
Seems like a design or manufacturing flaw to me though. Probably should be a much bigger contact area if it's getting that hot that it's blowing the solder I thought it might be a cold joint, but I reflowed it pretty good the first time and it happened again.
Resume Driven Design/Development in hardware is hard to hide compared to software.
I think many folks would focus more on their job instead of cool new tooling if their job gave them meaning.
I own a 180kg french door Liebherr with no touchscreen or other bullshit, just a fridge, freezer with ice maker. I have only had it for a few years but it’s been very solid, fingers crossed.
It was a little under €6k if Iremember right.
Could be bad luck, though I see a fair number of similar complaints online. I wouldn't buy again.
The Miele oven failed _on_. I noticed it was hot when I walked by it one day, even thought the controls were all off. It took a call to the US Consumer Product Safety Commission to get it fixed (and yes, they were very interested).
I'm very surprised to hear that a Miele appliance failed so spectacularly. What did customer support have to say when you first reached out?
I don't own any of their stuff but I've held them in very high regard based on what I've read & heard from others.
There are several circuit boards and a display/keypad board in the unit. The Miele factory repairman tried replacing each one (at a cost of about $1000 apiece) and it still didn't fix it! (The unit was out of warranty)
The actual culprit: The heating element behind the back (used for convection) is wired (in the US) to be between the two phases of the 220 volt line. One phase is always connected to one end of the element, the other side is switched. The element developed a fault somewhere in the middle and shorted to ground. (This line had no GFCI on it). So 110 volts was flowing through half the heating element at all times. We discovered this ourselves after the repairman left with the unit unfixed (they were "waiting for parts") and we looked at the circuit diagram he left behind.
The Milele repair technician didn't check for this--a $75 part that failed--and wanted to replace all the electronics inside.
We reported to the US Consumer Product Safety Commission because we thought this was a serious design defect and they did get involved. Miele conceded that they didn't need to replace thousands of dollars of circuit boards and display boards inside the product.
Luckily, I had bought an extended warrant from the store! Actually, the store sold me an extended warranty from a third-party company. And the service people the warranty company sourced kept failing to fix it, and then leaving things worse, like breaking the freezer drawer.
At first I assumed it was issues with parts and labor due to COVID, but the problem proceeded well into 2021.
The warranty company (“New Leaf”) refused to pay for a new fridge, when I clearly had a lemon. They kept wanting to send technicians out, but it turned out fine print in the contract says they can deduct that cost from paying out for a new fridge. (I forget the exact details, but it basically meant they would never have to replace the fridge if they didn’t want to.)
In the end, the solution was leaving a negative Yelp review against the appliance retailer, along with a BBB complaint. The owner offered to eat the cost and just get me a new fridge. I’d have preferred the warranty company do it on principle, but I’ll take any happy ending.
The Bosch dishwasher is better, quiet but with the annoying habit of all the interior plastic parts falling apart.
I’m hoping that by the time warranty ends on all of these things I manage to iron the major problems out. At the very least arranging for somebody to come in and take a look is a pretty painless experience...
Of course, that would need to be in your "final home" because nobody would want to buy a house like that.
One tiny example: my brand-new JennAir wall-oven has remote start through it's phone app. Guess what? You have to enable "remote start" on the oven itself before the app works. Every single time! You can't just enable remote start on the oven once and then use the app. You must enable it every single time -- in advance of using the app. And to enable it requires 20-30 seconds of "turn oven on, wait for animations to complete, click through this menu, that menu, and another menu". It makes remote start almost useless: I leave the house at 7:00 AM and have to remember to do this every single morning if I want to use remote start for the oven to be preheated when I arrive home.
Remote start on LG and Samsung? It's a breeze. These are companies whose have software as a core competency. JennAir? Not so much.
It's a huge red flag to me if a fridge, oven, microwave, etc., involves software/apps at all (at least, outside of some microcontroller programming that is never exposed). It's almost certainly a sign that the appliance is junk.
Both honestly skeeve me out; I wouldn't want to use it unless I had remote cameras and could confirm the oven was empty/only had what I wanted in it.
Almost all ovens have been able to do that since at least the '60s. You don't turn on the oven remotely, you set a clock that tells the oven when to turn on.
> Both honestly skeeve me out;
I'd rather set remote start from the oven itself, but it's not an option. App only.
Remote start was my first or second criterion when purchasing a new oven 2 months ago. It's not marketing.
> It's hard to cook when you're not in the kitchen
It's for preheating. I can save 15 minutes if I can remote start the oven. That's a big deal when you only have 2-3 hours between getting home and kids in bed. It's ok if we have different lives, but don't discount features important to me because of that.
The irony is that cheaper models are still crazy durable - less circuitry, less moving parts, less "economy" features, more off-the-shelf components. If you actually want appliances that last forever, think like a landlord and buy yourself the boring products.
Even for the 'best' refrigerators, it can be VERY painful to respond to a reasonable defect maintenance issue for certain manufacturers. And it may depend upon the locale you're in.
Tip: Ask questions about repair ETAs when buying new, for each model.
If customers fail to realize some manufacturers adopted and went beyond intentional planned obsolescence, then they brought it on themselves throwing money away by expecting a different result. That's either stupidity or insanity.
If it's large, it can become shit on its own, so beware.
Commercial things are great but BE AWARE there may be things unexpected about them. Like noise is usually not an issue for a commercial item in an industrial kitchen.
Check used prices on commercial gear. Anything that maintains a used price after 5-10 years indicates a valuable brand. If you can't find any used ones being sold, it probably becomes crap. Auction sites (not eBay, but like physical "business is shutting down" auctions) can be good for this, if you can see the price they went for.
The only brand I'm really "all in" on is Speed Queen. Everything else so far I have been in the "I'll buy it scratch and dent cheap enough that I won't be sad if it explodes" - Best Buy clearance has been good to me here.
I just checked the label in my Frigidaire and it says 300 psi for high-side, 140 psi for low-side (R600a). An R12 system would be closer to 150psi on the high-side.
However I bought LG appliances (Fridge/Washer/Dryer/Dishwasher) that have been in service since 2018 (6 yrs) even as a rental home.
I regret buying anything Whirlpool, they're ROYAL crap! All my appliances have failed to some extent within/before their upcoming 3 yrs mark (MAR/2024).
Seems that'd mainly be desirable in uncomfortably warm climates. In cooler spots, a refrigerator's waste heat may be a welcome addition to indoor heating.
(I learned interior design from RimWorld.)
Another thing I do is call up an appliance repair shop and ask them which one they'd buy for themselves.
The thing is, though, that just a few decades ago even inexpensive consumer toasters were able to make decent toast. That no longer being the case is just weird and sad to me, and emblematic of a larger systemic problem.
Our $1500 Samsung fridge, which ended up in the landfill after less than 5 years, was one of the lucky ones involved in the class-action lawsuit because it doesn’t properly de-ice the coils. The actual de-icing consists of a tiny heater connected to a 1-inch-wide aluminum Z-shaped “finger” that sits in the middle of the drain below the coils at the back of the fridge, inside. What happens is this finger can’t keep up with the ice buildup and it goes into a runaway state where more and more ice builds up since the near-freezing water can’t drain away. You’re left with a giant brick of ice at the back of the fridge, inside GLUED-DOWN STYROFOAM inside of a thin plastic cover which is also secured solely with adhesive. The styrofoam breaks apart when you try to remove it. We ran it for a couple of months with a few 120mm PC fans circulating air through the coils (as the fan assembly is also integrated into the formed styrofoam as air channels to route air around the fins of the foils, and one of the characteristic signs of this situation is the stock fan grinding on the ice buildup). Samsung advises to NOT use a blow dryer to attempt to de-ice, as this also deforms the styrofoam; they say that in order to remedy this, one must completely empty the fridge and freeze and leave it unplugged with the doors open for about a week to allow 100% of the ice to melt. The problem with that, of course, is that since this is a design flaw, the same thing will inevitably happen again after another week or two. I suppose you could buy two Samsung fridges, and move everything back and forth depending on even/odd weeks so the unused fridge can thaw.
We had to pay a junk company to come haul it away to the landfill and now we have a GE Profile which has never had this problem.
Tiny, 1-2mm bits of hard water mineral buildup clogging the non-serviceable water sensor impeller of the dishwasher and the quarter-turn water assembly that falls off with the lightest bump from a large pot / pan etc in the left side of the dishwasher causing a flood of water under it is a story for another time.
Samsung makes badly-designed products that the uninitiated public believe are well-designed because they look cool. They’re priced as premium products with the build quality of budget junk. The only Samsung things I’ll touch these days are their SD cards and SSDs, which I only have good things to say about.
If all that isn’t enough, read up on how corrupt the Samsung family is and how they basically control a big part of politics in South Korea.
That said, I'm a huge fan of Samsung and LG displays. We bought the Samsung S95B based on it having the highest rating for TVs on RTINGs. It was a great TV (though it blows out colors with its default calibration) that breaks incredibly easily because of how thin the casing is at the top of the screen.
YMMV.
I mean that it seems if I bought an LG 30" Range Model ABC in NYC and you bought one in LA, your model is ABC-D.
Manufacturers seem to be constantly changing parts, models, BOMs.
Is this because of just in time production? Different parts at difficult times means different variations?
It makes it IMPOSSIBLE to know which you'll get and which one is being reviewed online.
A recent FTC lawsuit [1] made me realize it could also be meant to prevent the seller's platform from doing price comparison ("if Amazon discovers that a seller is offering lower-priced goods elsewhere, Amazon can bury discounting sellers so far down in Amazon’s search results that they become effectively invisible")
Everything is becoming like this. If you want to buy a reliable product, good luck! It’s not easy to do that anymore because incentives are so misaligned: you can’t trust the quality of the products, you can’t trust reviews — trust is breaking down so widely that to bypass that fact is foolish. It needs to be considered. Trust is everything.
If not: you're not wrong about any one individual thing but you have a completely distorted sense of proportions.
Irrational optimism and irrational pessimism both lead to similar sorts of faulty decision making and wind up being equally detrimental to well-being.
they replaced the compressor (only due to a class action suit compelling them to), but I expect it will die prematurely again anyway
I keep thermometers in the fridges and check them all the time
an independent appliance repair guy told me changing brands won't help much, they are all junk now and he mostly does installations instead of repairs
I responded..."even Bosch dishwashers?" to which he replied that I was probably thinking of Bosch from the 90s
Take this with a grain of salt. Repairmen only see the failures and are very skewed by survivorship fallacy.
Sure, that's the value of their advice. You want the appliances that they rarely see.
This really shouldn't shock anyone, it's a bit of the status quo for appliances, printers, toys, you name it. Planned obsolescence is real and going strong.
He got a couple years out of it.
He did end up finding one. Allegedly the part was redesigned, but what they meant by that was thicker foam tape.
We just replaced a 30-year-old GE with a Whirlpool, so far so good, but we don't expect another 30 years out of it.
This was like when Apple replaced the defectively soldered GPUs on just-out-of-warranty MacBookPros... with the same defective GPUs. In my case, it gave me almost one year to transfer to another model.
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As for refrigerators, my kitchen design has two refrigerators, in case one is down for repairs/spills/CostCo. The one that's about to die is the newer model.
Make MBAs illegal.
Should we blame individual MBAs, or the governments that create the market / regulatory environments that make such choices rational (or even necessary for survival)?
E.g., governments could alter consumer-protection laws to make it financially unwise for a manufacturer to sell devices likely to fail in the first 10 years.
It is a virus that eats reality and turns it into money.
If humanity is to survive, MBAs have to be outlawed and banished from any form of administration.
Draining everyone, that is what they exist for. Tax evasion, rampant corruption, loss of privacy, mass surveillance, ecocide, regular mass layoffs, low wages, perpetual war, greedflation, etc. Behind every problem, a MBA.
Without MBAs, we would be living on Mars. Instead, MBAs are marsforming earth.
Even if we outlawed MBAs, we'd still have a business environment in which companies that maximize their profitability potentially outcompete more customer-centric companies.
A profit-maximizing strategy potentially gives them more money, which in turn lets them lower their prices, ramp up faster in newer markets, etc.
I don't think it matters much whether or not people have MBAs. Market dynamics will exist regardless of whether we teach people about them.
I think your real complaint lies elsewhere in the system.
Reviews on their 600 CFM range exhaust hoods, though, are all over the map. Smaller bits like that seem even harder to get a good read on.