Exactly. HR is there to comply with certain regulations and otherwise minimize the number of lawsuits that the company is a party to.
Maybe if they're really good they might have a robust professional development program but that's certainly not a given!
I think sometimes HR gets blamed for stuff that's really upper management's fault. HR can try to patch over the bad decisions and deal with the interpersonal problems caused, but there's really not that much they can do because they have no real power, and the problems are caused by inept management. It's not HR's fault when upper management decides to promote people to management who clearly don't have the right personality for it, and that's not something HR can fix.
I've seen horror stories about companies like yours on places like glassdoor.com. Those are places to be avoided at all costs.