As sibling commentor pointed out, the default (and standard) way to go back is a back gesture, there is no button to press anymore. The OS teaches you how to do this with an overlay tutorial. My mom, who is 68, was able to figure this out without any help when she upgraded to a Pixel 4A several years ago.
What is surprising to me is that using a Back button that's at the top of the phone would be acceptable to you. That's definitely the hardest part of the UI to reach one handed, and yet going back in an app is definitely something you should be able to do quickly without having to stretch your fingers to reach it. Perhaps you prefer smaller phones, but those are becoming pretty rare these days.
> The convention is that it's in the top left and that the "swipe rightward from the left edge of the screen" gesture also goes back
So what's fun about that is from an iOS developer perspective, this is not always free, and the back gesture itself only works within your own app unless you do additional work. This is probably why you mention
> But Android's approach is probably better at providing a decent UX with terrible apps.
As I could imagine the app's back navigation is a factor you must consider when the OS doesn't handle it. It's not a dimension that matters on Android- as all apps are going to play nice within the back gesture system automatically unless they block it intentionally, even if the app isn't particularly good. I cannot recall any app I've come across that actually blocks the back gesture (not even games, remote desktop, Steam Link).