The "crappy bespoke cloud setup" is usually the result of people whose jobs are usually just regular app devs, but had been thrown into the infrastructure side head first. I think the key is to actually have someone who knows what they are talking about.

Unlike other people I don't think you need to hire someone directly. I do devops freelancing so you could hire someone like me. Or look online for various people that do it. I mean if its a toy app without many customers then who cares, but once you start scaling infrastructure gets to me more and more important.