Basically it's cool how cars do things largely on their own sometimes to stay within certain parameters.
20 years ago was 2003, which is practically yesterday [in my mind...].
-turbocharger overheats
-oil overheats And the things you stated and much more …
Better to let the motor run while standing is to run it the last kilometers in low rpm
If it happens a lot (when turned off) I'd think about having an inspection done. Worst case scenario, engine ends up overheating, warps or explodes, and you need a new one. Coolant system is one of those "oh shit" systems that you need to pay close attention to.
For those curious, the coolant around the engine block can boil and flow upwards after the engine is off, and the coolant circulation system is designed to handle this pattern. You can observe this yourself if you overfill your coolant and take it out on a hot day, the excess hot coolant will bubble up and run out for a good while after the engine is off.
I second the advice that if the engine isn’t overheating while running, everything is likely working as intended.
If I was a car manufacturer, I would wire the fan into the ignition circuit so it can never run with the ignition off - it's fairly useless to have a fan blowing on a radiator when the coolant isn't flowing anyway.
> Thats done to save a couple of cents on the ignition switch (no need for a large high current fan to be powered through it).
The fan must be powered by a relay in most cases so this is utter bullshit.
In most any modern car the fan is controlled by the ECM (a computer). Furthermore this fan relay will come on in anticipation of high heat load such as when the AC is turned on as well in cars without dual fans.
There is so much more complexity here than just wiring through the ignition circuit (which wouldn’t cost any more anyway as noted) that thinking this is a cost saving issue is utterly clueless.
And the temperature sensor that controls it is invariably located in the engine block, not the radiator hose. Modern cars may have multiple sensors but they need one in the block.
Cooling fans in most cars don’t draw 20 amps while running normally (they should be closer to 10), and while anything can fail the cooling fan in these setups should only run for a few minutes. Draining the battery like you claim is not a “common” cause of breakdowns.
You clearly don’t know much about modern (last >30 years) cars to be commenting on them so authoritatively, tone down your arrogance.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/wiring-diagr...
This is a typical setup (and it’s 20 years ago). Debunking two of your claims. First note that the condenser fan is wired through the ignition, debunking the notion that it would be costly to do so and that running the main fan bypassed isn’t intentional. Also note that the actual fan control is the lower right black box PCM/ECM (engine computer)
A further reason is no movement = no wind speed. I used to have an old Pontiac grand am with the ram air. I had overheating issues sometimes that were literally solved by going faster.
Cars are like people. Sometimes a quirk is normal, and sometimes it means your bottom end is gonna fall out. Gotta get regular checkups and hope you catch it in time.
With carburettor fed engines it is sometimes advised by the manufacturer to allow the engine to idle for some time after running it at high RPM. This is because the effect of heat soak can be significant enough to boil all the fuel off in the carb, making the engine hard to restart when hot.
Before I looked up what it was, I kept hearing a gentle noise coming from the garage in the late evening. Figured it was noise from outside... Then one day I was out there and heard it start, realized it was the car, and looked it up.