ls -l .git/refs/remotes/origin/master
origin/master is just a file on your system, you can see when it has been changed. It doesn't magically get updated. Do `git fetch origin` and if there are any changes, you'll see the timestamp change, and the contents:
cat .git/refs/remotes/origin/master
The basics of git are so simple, you can implement the core data structures and some operations in a day. It is really worth it to get to know these.
Somehow git has managed to create a very complex user interface on top of quite a simple core.