I don’t have any suggestions, just wanted to pop in and share my dismay that there doesn’t seem to be anything quite like what you’re looking for.

I started in plain HTML/refresh IE back in the day, and Dreamweaver (for all its many _many_ flaws) did a great job.

I really wonder how many young web engineers aren’t having their calling realized because of this simple gap - being able to write in a WYSIWYG editor and view the source, alter it, learn what the HTML and CSS were doing, and instantly see the results, was inspiring for me. I wonder how different it would’ve been to have the editor just push the work out to WordPress or whatever and never really get to see the inner workings.