Can highly recommend Migadu for those geeky enough to handle their own DNS setup. No affiliation with them except as a very satisfied customer.
I found the conversation view to be no where near as good as gmail. The ui in general just was far below gmail. So in the end I slithered back on over to gmail.
Also, I remember auto-filters not working very well and not putting my emails in the right folders
TIL. I have been using migadu for more than an year and I didn't know they have one.
My favourite feature is the subdomain addressing (something@me.domain.com => me@domain.com).
Can’t say I’m a fan of the webmail, but I’ve only used it when I’m without an imap client.