From the article:
> The mobile phones were tested by an accredited laboratory, which allows the ANFR to ensure that the SAR values comply with European regulation.
> The mobile phones were tested by an accredited laboratory, which allows the ANFR to ensure that the SAR values comply with European regulation.
There was a similar case recently where Sweden's equivalent decided to test a bunch of models of EV chargers and found some lacking.
In general, outside of these random tests, "they check the paperwork, not the thing itself" is correct.