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That modal window cannot be closed without JavaScript, rendering entire page unreadable, if not the Reader View.

On Firefox, go to View, Page Style, No Style to make it readable without JavaScript.

I actually wrote about how bad the <dialog> tag is for the web and I'm sort of glad to be proven right, if by absolute annoyance

You can also try the Kill Sticky add-on for Firefox: https://addons.mozilla.org/fr/firefox/addon/kill-sticky/. It will also get rid of the annoying banner in fixed position at the top.

yeah but why is it on me to defeat a hostile user experience?

I actually did, until I saw page link and comments on HN discussing content.

Same here.