(I up voted you because it was good information that do not deserve to be greyed, I really like the study, but I disagree)
The ultra-processed food are not nonsense, only hard to define depending on your culture.
One example my sister used is bread.
If your bread contain flour water and salt, it's processed food but not ultra-processed. Everyone agree. Even if you use multiple different flour and nuts, still the same.
After that, you can add oil on the bread before cooking it (not mixed with the bread,just on top, to change the crust formation). It is possible to consider it ultra-processed now (people rarely do, even in France).
Now come the question of sugar (there is a salt question too but I don't know enough to talk about it). Sugar help conserving the bread. In France, some people (including me) consider that any amount of sugar in bread makes it ultra-processed. Some consider that it only is if the bread cannot be just called bread, but that depends on your culture. Some 'bread' in the US would be called 'brioche' here by almost everyone.
But for the majority of stuff, it's easier : if it's a pre-prepared meal with conservatives, it's ultra-processed.
Which does not mean it's bad, though. Generally it is, but not always. Nutri-score (at least the last iteration, the previous one was flawed against fat in general and insaturated fat in particular) is imho a better way to look at food.