I agree about the colors but the text-centric nature of the site otherwise makes it better than most places I visit.
Resizeable text would also be good on mobile, where zoom is not always available, and is often of the wrong type to be useful¹.
Dark Reader handles the colors well enough to be usable imo, although it makes the OP on text posts kinda ugly and low-contrast by default.
> HOSTILE towards basic UX practices?
As someone who is mildly to moderately visually impaired (and whose vision continues to degrade rapidly compared to that of healthy people), I don't actually trust UX professionals with accessibility, especially on the web. This is unfortunate because that's also the only group that ever has any expertise with it. But generally speaking, extremely simple, text-centric websites are way easier to work with than professionally designed ones.
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1: Magnification is an 'intuitive' form of zooming but it's god awful if you need to be zoomed in all the time. Old school resize-and-reflow zoom is way more usable because then you still only have to scroll/pan in one direction.