Water repellent clothing and PFAS – are they a danger?
molecularspec.substack.com
molecularspec.substack.com
As a backpacker and a sailor, I strongly feel that DWR/Gore-Tex stuff is garbage anyways- it's (only slightly) breathable when new, but when the coating wears after a few weeks or months, or gets dirty it becomes no longer hydrophobic, and the water sheets on completely blocking the pores. This leads to zero breathability like a sheet of plastic, yet they usually also manage to leak water in constant all day heavy rains or ocean spray. The gore-tex membrane inside is very fragile and becomes ripped and unglued pretty rapidly, in places you cannot see- you don't know until you are counting on it, and it fails.
Two vastly superior alternatives that are PFAS free, much cheaper, more durable, more waterproof, and already on the shelf at most major outdoor stores:
* Polyurethane coated polyester raincoats, e.g. by Helley-Hansen cost about $100 USD new, and are more durable and waterproof than DWR/Nylon/Gore-Tex. Zero breathability (just like Gore-Tex in practice!) but because designers know this, they have excellent vents added, with waterproof zippers to close in extreme weather. Although they look similar, these are much better than your standard cheap PVC raincoat. I use these for sailing and stay bone dry with waves crashing over my body all day long.
* Membrane only jackets (membrane on the outside) such as Columbia OutDry. Because the surface material is fundamentally hydrophobic, they need no PFAS DWR coating, and stay waterproof and breathable even when dirty or aged. Only about $150 new.
// Edit: a third great option is PFAS free Nikwax brand waterproofing you can apply yourself to almost any garment. I've personally only used this on tents and car convertible tops, but it worked great.
Another nice option, especially for streetwear, is Ventile cotton: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ventile
Ventile clothes without nasty water repellents applied on top are generally marketed as EtaProof.
Ventile is an exception to the "rule" that "cotton kills" (in the cold).
Especially great is for staying dry is double layered ventile, which is now free of flourine chemistry for extra waterproofing (older iterations used PFAS as an extra waterproofing coating.)
The cotton breathes, it's more durable than gore-tex or off-brand knockoffs (stressed PTFE), and it doesn't make annoying "swish swish" noises either, which is helpful for bird watchers and other folks that want to move quietly in nature.
There are two major disadvantages: cost and weight. A ventile garment is many times the price of a similar ptfe garment, especially now that the original gore-tex patents have expired. And it's also many times the weight.
However, let's be honest, if you can afford ventile, you probably can drop 3 pounds of fat through the additional time you will spend outside, lengthen your healthspan and lifetime, and use the garment long enough to pay for the several "waterproof" ptfe garments you would have gone through in the same time.
In the 80’s wool hiking gear used to be around for this reason too. I’d never feel appropriate recommending cotton for anything serious, any season.
If you look at people that do hard labor or outdoor guide work in extreme hot climates around the world- they all use cotton or similar plant fibers. All of the concerns about cotton come from it cooling "too well" and that often simply isn't an issue. Synthetic and wool stuff is also just not very durable, and incredibly expensive.
I say this as someone with decades of outdoor experience, an ex-boy scout, etc. who used to be a hardline proponent of "cotton kills" in all outdoor conditions. I learned the hard way that I was wrong after being proven wrong time and again in real world conditions, by people with more experience than me that were able to keep functioning in extreme heat better than I was.
The trench foot etc has nothing to do with cotton or synthetics, it’s being wet for days and days. I’ve seen people get it. I’d trust synthetic or wool socks to dry faster and hold their shape (blisters are just as bad) than cotton any day. Also nobody is overheating (or breaking the bank) in Darntough socks.
Your assumptions on moisture and temp management are based on an assumption of environmental control that doesn’t exist in the outdoors. The margin of error is very small for slipping into chilly and then cold as hell, and it happens quickly. Lack of durable synthetics (which I’ve never had give out on me, inspect your equipment prior to leaving lol) vs durable but risky cotton is a silly trade off, in this light.
Heat stroke, the actual type that’s bad, gets prevented from pounding salted water and ice sheets. For it to get this far such that it happens, no amount of sweaty cool cotton will help it.
I say this as someone who learned the hard way as well or watched others did. I am an Eagle Scout, was in a combat branch in the army for a while, been in very hot places for very long, seen trench foot, heat cats, cold cats galore.
It was also worn in the summit of Mt Everest by Edmund Hillary as it is a great windstopper.
It has nothing to do with regular cotton.
With the margin of error in the outdoord being as small as it is, I’d trust synthetics or wool that will always work vs the risk my cotton isn’t treated recently and reaches failure.
Ventile works it's magic by the combination of long fibered cotton, thigtly spun thread and a close weave. The result is a fabric that after some time swells in rain by absorbing water, and then becoming saturated and impermeable(ish) to further ingress of the wet stuff. The inside will feel damp, but not wet. Wool as a base layer is of course an excellent counter to this. And, all the while excess body heat is shed quite effectively. When at rest, put on a wool or fleece 2nd layer, just like with a synthetic shell.
A compromise, yes. But the greatest advantage over 3L membrane etc. in my opinion is the ruggedness and durability, "experienced wetness" beeing alike. And in the high mountains, boreal or a mid-winter climate with months of stable sub-freezing tempratures, this is a supreme choice for your outer shell. Sweat converted to frost forms on the outside of the garment, instead of the inside as it is want to do in a 2L or 3L. Brush it right of, and carry on.
Yeah, that's apparently the key problem: the shakedry product line (exposed membrane) was incredibly good at breathability, but I guess the usage restrictions (no backpacks that would rub off the membrane) should be taken seriously, considering the footprint.
That's not a distinction. Most Gore-tex or similar proprietary brands also have vents and waterproof zippers.
In fact, for the vast majority of readers here on HN, pit zips and a storm flap on a seam-sealed jacket will keep them dry and keep the garment from wetting out in the vast majority of conditions.
Heck, they could probably even get away with one of those super-lightweight packable windbreakers with a DWR from Mountain Hardware, Patagonia, etc. You could be out for maybe 25-30 minutes of driving rain before water finally gets in through the seams. That's more than enough time for most indoor cats here. :)
Hiking boots now almost all have a goretex membrane, and they seem to last maybe one or two seasons of regular use before they leak. The leather can last many years with care, and the sole can be replaced, but once the goretex is shot you only have whatever water proofing you can apply to the leather itself.
(I work in the industry, but not directly with these sort of things).
For two seasons.
Now I have a Arc'Teryx with real water proofing and huge side vents. Still working 100% after 6 years. I just checked and Arc'Teryx looks to have gone full Gore-Tex now, my jacket isn't on the product list :-(
Most jackets that use a durable water repellant require the coating be regularly maintained (cleaning, re-heating) and re-applied after some time. Manufacturers usually say "years", but one year seems more realistic, even in a not-that-wet climate.
That being said, I agree that Gore-Tex stuff is not waterproof enough for sailing. It's a compromise between waterproof/light-weight/packability/breathability.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7277079/#:~:tex....
I'm sure that PE-coated and membrane-only gear are also really great, and I'll definitely check them out the next time I need a new softshell, but for the next decade or so, I'm also sure my current jacket will be just fine.
But, Nikwax? Nope... good for the outside layer of shoes (with the inside layer taking care of heat/moisture), but that's really about it. Tents, maybe, car-tops, no idea, but for garments that's just a no-go, since it will all but eliminate outgoing heat transfer.
Are finished PTFE products contaminated with the base PFAS monomers?
Its like how vinyl chloride is dangerous, but when its the polymer PVC its basically safe. People are confused about this in general. I am too.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrafluoroethylene
As I understand it, the three concerns are:
1. The manufacturing and processing of PTFE is usually done in water with a fluorosurfactant mixed in. The fluorosurfactant varies from nasty to extremely nasty.
2. PTFE could potentially degrade into something less benign than PTFE.
3. PTFE has mediocre thermal stability — it starts to decompose a bit at temperatures that you can easily reach with careless cooking and, notably, it starts to decompose while it’s still a solid. This makes any kind of theromoplastic processing (extruding, molding, etc) a bit nasty. I think the decomposition products are gasses. They are noted for killing birds and concentrations at which their presence is not obvious to mammals.
The Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus set up in Hartford, CT and a fire broke out with a big crowd inside the big tent. 160+ people died.
Submitted title was "Does wearing waterproof clothing increase PFAS in our bodies?".
Submitters: "Please use the original title, unless it is misleading or linkbait; don't editorialize." - https://news.ycombinator.com/newsguidelines.html
https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/press-releases/pfass-chemi...
I guess my point being that even if PFAS are as terrible as asbestos that's not enough to keep us from continuing to produce it.
You've heard of the Lead-Crime Hypothesis right?
mmm... no
"IARC classifies aspartame as “possibly carcinogenic to humans” (Group 2B), based on limited evidence it might cause cancer (specifically liver cancer) in people. IARC also notes there is limited evidence for cancer in lab animals and limited evidence related to possible mechanisms for it causing cancer."
https://www.cancer.org/cancer/risk-prevention/chemicals/aspa...
I wonder if this is a reliable phenomenon that will eventually happen to other kinds of fake news.
I think there a lot of fitness/diet professionals that are posting videos with the message of "WTF!! I'm trying to get my obese, prediabetic clients off of sugar water!!"
Scotch Guard is basically 'spray teflon' and is super toxic for you, but in the 80s we were encourdaged to spray it all over the place.
https://www.ewg.org/news-insights/news/ask-ewg-why-there-tef...
Might be a good idea to check if I have been exposed to some of this rubbish
Watch this disturbing documentary on teflon
"the devil we know"