On the other hand, that deep magic metaprogramming can be really hard to follow if you need to understand how it works. Tracing back through (or even debugging) a metaprogramming-heavy codebase is a nightmare.
I'd argue that deep magic metaprogramming is great for when you have abstractions you almost never need to dig into. Rails is great because it's relatively rare that I need to go spelunking in the rails codebase itself (and thus understand the deep magic). Instead, I can rely on a huge pile of documentation, stack overflow answers, conference talks, etc to figure out how to use rails' abstractions (like `has_one :posts`) without needing to understand their implementation.
On the other hand, the average production codebase should minimize their use of metaprogramming. When I don't understand how Joe's `Whatsit` interface works, I'm much more likely to need to dig into Joe's code to understand how to use that abstraction. If I have to understand Joe's deep magic every time I do that, it's a net loss.