Managing Kitchen Fruit Flies with a Little Shop of Horrors
blog.zaccohn.com
blog.zaccohn.com
They either throw out decoys when you swat them to fool us, or there’s a large queue of them waiting to take their turn to keep the number flying constant
I have an indoor bug zapper. I set it next to a window and it gets the bugs that are inside. Does a great job. But always intermittently some small fly will fly into it. Even when a door hasn’t been opened.
I joke, but I’m semi convinced that 1 in every few billion try’s, the tiny flys make it thru the glass of the window. Where else are they coming from ? lol.
*I may have grossly misunderstood my physics lecturer. It was a long time ago.
So it’s not that they just pop into existence. You, as the person pulling them apart, are the cause of the extra quarks being created.
I wonder how hard you'd have to slap a table to spontaneously generate a fruit fly. Or the average number of attempts required.
Yep, that's right. That's when the flies infect the produce.
So if you have a single fertilized female in a room, about 10 days later, you will start getting those handful flies emerge every day. You can keep your room completely isolated, but still you can catch 5 a day on average for about a month or two (in lab conditions longer). If you don't catch them all and you end up with another fertilized female, the story continues.
I think flies are very opportunistic individuals, in the sense that there is always a fly hatching somewhere. If there is food, it will lay the eggs there. If there is no food it will try and stick around or die. But even if it dies, it's bothers and sisters are constantly emerging. So the population will survive a lot of adverse conditions.
Horse flies are the bitey kind, so release?! ... well, no polite words here.
(House flies are typically just... flies)
Also, you probably have a dead mouse or some such, in a crawl space. Thus maggots, thus flies.
Sarracenia are outdoors plants, they need a ton of direct sunlight and a seasonal rest in winter. They already look light deprived in your pictures.
Still, I would recommend getting a Mexican Pinguicula (for example Pinguicula "Tina"). They do better in lower light and the sticky leaves work much better against fruit flies and gnats :)
sits at odds with:
> I can assure you these Sarracenia will not do anything against your fruit flies problem.
Maybe instead grow a bunch and test and see if you can find out why the author has success where you do not? Otherwise the 'assurance' bit seems a bit thin.
I'm still certain that carnivorous plants are not a good pest control option, I would not recommend it to anyone (even tho it would be great for my business). Even if OP's plants can keep up with the flies' regeneration rate, they will quickly die in that setup.
I see posts like these very often, and they never show any real long term results for some reason... Rather, they are just sharing their excitement about putting cool plants in their house while having common misconceptions about them, I can't be mad
Then eventually the plant will die, because that's not the right environment for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Stingmon-Pack-Sticky-Fruit-Fungus/dp/...
It's essentially a better looking version of fly paper. They're easy to place alongside indoor plants. Fruit flies and gnats are attracted to decaying organic matter and the moist soil of indoor plants is an often overlooked oasis for them. Gnats are more likely to hang out in indoor potted soils (especially if overwatered) because they feed on fungus, but fruit flies can take refuge there too.
A couple years back I had a months long battle with fruit flies. Kitchen was always clean, garage sealed up tight, no indoor compost, I used apple vinegar traps of all styles but nothing solved the problem until I placed those sticky paper inserts at the base of all my indoor plants. Within a week the fruit flies were gone.
We had an insane fruit fly problem after coming home from vacation and this cleared them up pretty quick
I think I’d rather use your solution instead of running this device though
Tried every tip, trick, remedy and commercial solution we could find. We were up to our eyeballs in apple cider vinegar, fly paper, sprays, traps and the like.
Nothing worked.
Then we discovered one of our kids had hung up their unfinished lunch from the last day of school in their lunch bag, and left it to rot in the laundry room.
Fixed our fruit fly problem pretty quickly after that.
Place that on the kitchen counter near where the flies congregate. They will follow the scent down the hole where they will be mostly trapped and if they touch the liquid, they will sink and drown as the soap removed the surface tension.
Most people cover the glass with some cling film and punch a few holes through, but it will work fine without. The main advantage of the film is that the liquid won't evaporate away, and the trap will be good for a couple of weeks.
To be slightly more specific, the soap changes the surface-tension of the liquid, causing it to, er, schlorp onto the insect in a way it does not expect.
That reminds me of JBS Haldane's classic essay "On Being The Right Size":
> An insect, therefore, is not afraid of gravity [...] But there is a force which is as formidable to an insect as gravitation to a mammal. This is surface tension. [...]
> An insect going for a drink is in a great danger as man leaning out over a precipice in search of food. If it once falls into the grip of the surface tension of the water -that is to say, gets wet - it is likely to remain so until it downs. A few insects, such as water-beetles, contrive to be unwettable; the majority keep well away from their drink by means of a long proboscis.
I saw the other day on Thingiverse a fruit fly trap. Example: [1] (it wasn't this one, and there are many other ones, but this one resembles the looks of the paper version). But I think its OK to make such a trap a few times a year during summer (when they're abundant here). You also wanna get rid of them ASAP, as they attract bigger flies.
When I was a child, I liked lizards, rats, and frogs as pets, and I also enjoyed the occasional Venus Flytrap from the nursery. I considered some pitcher plants recently, but I had to weigh their effectiveness against cockroaches, and the need to build a whole tropical environment with lights, heat and humidity.
Lastly, that brand of essential oil is the same one I purchase, and it's great. I use them in a diffuser.
Tropical pitcher plants (Nepenthes) do make decent houseplants, although they struggle through the dry indoor Canadian winters here. They do seem to capture a lot of the fungus gnats I've been fighting with lately (I can see dozens and dozens in each pitcher), but not nearly enough to make a noticeable difference.
So yeah, they absolutely grow wild but aren't an extremely prolific plant, best places to see them are usually near bogs and ponds.
I put the VFT outside once for it to snack and it ate a slug. Would have loved to see the look on the slugs face when the plant bit back.
Mine even survive on tap water which goes against advice, but I guess Scotlands tap water is different from most places. Just keep them in an inch of water the whole time, easiest plants ever.
My preferred method to get rid of them is with a black hole: I put a couple of pieces of fruit into my homemade Superconducting Apricot Collider, set it on high and then place the resulting black hole right above the compost bin. Works every time. Just be careful with the black hole because if you drop them they fall all the way to the center of the earth and are rather difficult to retrieve.
I recently discovered that you can water your plants with mosquito dunks in the water, which will put the bacteria (aka: BTI, bacillus thuringiensis strain BMP 144) contained in the dunks into the soil. The bacteria then paralyze the larvae growing in the soil and they die.
Doing even more research, it seems there is a newer strain of the bacteria (AM 65-52) that you can buy in 16lbs! buckets for $570 off Amazon (or people have broken it into smaller batches on ebay).
This stuff really works like magic. Once the adults die off, no more appear.
Gnatrol Biological Larvicide Fungus Larvae
I used to keep some just for the sake of it, not at all to hunt bugs because that won't scale. In humid Buenos Aires, I tried both indoors and outdoors and... they are pretty hard to keep, aren't they?
You must water them lightly with distilled water. You must NOT let them flower (it's hard to overstate this, but it's true and I verified it first hand: the plant sprouts a single flower once a year, and if you don't prevent this by cutting the stalk ASAP, a single ugly white flower will sprout, and then your flytrap will die of exertion). You must not overfeed it. If it catches a bug on its own, chances are the "trap" will turn black and rot.
They seem to be very hard to keep outside their natural swamp environment...
As the NatureServe status says:
>The Venus Flytrap, a carnivorous species, is a narrow endemic of the coastal plain of North and South Carolina in the southeastern United States. It has very strict habitat requirements which include frequent natural fire, an open understory and low nutrient soils. There are close to 100 extant natural occurrences and between 73,000 - 158,000 total individuals. The species continues to decline, however, and should be reviewed frequently. Threats include poaching from wild populations, habitat conversion, and fire suppression.
There are very few natural areas left where these plants can survive, and these areas are tiny!
>Current range: The range of Venus flytrap is quite localized in scattered savannas of the coastal plain of southeastern North Carolina and adjacent eastern South Carolina in an approximate landward radius of 100 miles around Wilmington, North Carolina (North Carolina Natural Heritage Program 2010). Currently 68 extant occurrences are known from the following counties in North Carolina (the number of occurrences in parentheses): Bladen (5), Brunswick (21), Carteret (1), Columbus (3), Craven (1), Cumberland (4), Hoke (7), New Hanover (5), Onslow (12), Pender (7), and Sampson (2) (North Carolina Natural Heritage Program 2010), and Horry County (4), South Carolina (South Carolina Heritage Trust 1993b).
In a way, these plants have evolved into a dead end. They mostly lost their chloroplast genomes so they can't 'go back' to being regular plants.
Perhaps your mistake was that you don't set your kitchen on fire often enough?
https://explorer.natureserve.org/Taxon/ELEMENT_GLOBAL.2.1597...
https://thisiscriminal.com/episode-five-dropping-like-flies-...
TLDL; Because of how hard they are to cultivate, they have attracted thieves. But Criminal is an excellent podcast and Phoebe makes the story way more interesting than I ever could.
I take the racket and use a rubber band around the button to keep it "on" and then set the racket above a bowl of whatever bait I need to use.
I leave it there until the zaps finally stop.
Has yet to fail me in clearing out a fly infestation.
Where I am, pantry moths are the problem. One of the few genuinely useful ideas I've ever gotten off NextDoor is this: Dr. Killigan's Premium Pantry Moth Traps with Pheromones.
The pheromones attract the moths, and the glue makes them stick to it and die. You can put it out of site in a cabinet, and after a few weeks it's covered with dead moths.
The other option is to put things individually into well-sealed tubs or jars, to isolate any moths that might be there (they will drill a hole through thin plastic, like ziplock)
Honestly the trap method makes me a bit squeamish; if you’re continuously catching new moths, that means there're still eggs and larvae in at least one of your bags of food. The idea of eating that is a bit disturbing is to me.
You still have to find the source as you describe. However, if one of the moths flys out and away from the cupboard, they still might lay eggs some where else. You want the new hatchlings to go straight to the trap and get stuck.
We have had some moderate success with the traps, plus storing big bags of rice and flour in picnic coolers and everything else in airtight containers, but they have to be really airtight -- those little buggers can get under the lid of a mason jar or the tops of a canister set. What happens now is like a lesson in public health and contagion: one container will occasionally get a mess of webs and moths, but the scope is limited.
I just added some chardonnay to mine.
If there were an automatic 10W anti-fly laser air defense system, I'd buy it because they're too small to for manual fly zapping rackets.
[0] https://www.intellectualventures.com/
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intellectual_Ventures
[2] https://www.mic.com/articles/180851/the-world-needs-this-sma...
Unfortunately they leave ugly spots on our walls and ceilings, and most walls are not that easy to clean, so I developed a couple of techniques where I don't squash them on the wall: I slap my hands together just above where they're sitting, they see my hands move and fly up, just between my hands. Timing takes some practice, but I've had thousands of opportunities to perfect this technique.
Our kitchen wall has been treated to make it easy to clean, so there I just squash them against the wall, which is much easier.
I shall have to experiment.
Clapping above the fly makes me catch them 95% of the times.
It works for me.
- repot all plants after rinsing all soil from them
- use leca balls instead of soil and water the plants with a water + fertilizer solution (this is what they do for office plants and why they have stickers saying “do not water”)
- all incoming fruits and vegetables soak in water + vinegar for 20–30 min as this kills any eggs (they’ll also last longer because they don’t spoil as fast)
- have bug screens on any window that we keep open (they don’t come standard in Europe)
- the fruit basket is also enclosed in a bug screen for good measure
I believe fruit flies mostly came through grocery store fruits (eggs on the fruits) and then hatched and went to live in the houseplants soil where they’d eat the roots.
The best part is, working from our offices in separate rooms, my wife and I will hear a zap and both shout "Good job bug zapper!"
The new Shower Spider is doing alright, and it occurs to me that there's this complex web of life: my hair in the drain, some kind of fungus is in there growing on it, drain flies eating the fungus and flying up, they are caught by the spider, which then makes a web to catch more flies. So the matter that was once my hair enters the cycle of life and ends up above me in a spider web.
Also, trapping the little bastards is more efficient if you cover the container with cling foil and poke a hole in the middle. They'll easily get in by following the gradient of the escaping molecules, but finding the exit seems to be so much more difficult.
In the winter I kind of like them cos I don't have a chance to see insects.
Also let me wax a bit poetic and say how much of a miracle a little thing like a fruit fly is. How long will it be before a 'startup' can make a flying robot of the same size and intelligence? (my bet is on....never)
The idea: Deep trash can for the tasty banana peels. Flood the trash can with CO2. CO2 is heavier than air. If the trash can is deep enough maybe a sufficiently high concentration can be maintained without too frequent flooding.
The attractive smell should still be noticeble for the flies. And the environment around the trash of their desires is deadly.
The amount of fruit flies has definitely increased in the past two decades. Recently I also had food moths for the first time and strange little black bugs after buying cane sugar.
Apart from a moderate amount of fruit flies, I never had any of these a decade ago.
I love that the adage "you catch more flies with honey than vinegar" is literally false.
Each evening after cleaning up and taking out the trash, I’d whip out the vacuum arm without attachment and send the swarm to their doom. Believe I had to do it three times over a week or so, then it was done.
That’s just what happens when you leave fruit and food scraps out.
Flys seem to get dizzy flying to it and turn around ( that's an explanation I came up with why it works, don't know if it's the explanation)
If it's a outdoor tent, that means 4 hanging bags.
Otherwise, Audrey II can be purchased from local New York florists for a paltry $1.95, post-eclipse." [0]
[0]: https://carnivorousplantresource.com/the-plants/audrey-ii/
Then cats to eat the hummingbirds.
Then wolves to eat the cats.
Lisa: But isn't that a bit short-sighted? What happens when we're overrun by lizards?
Principal Skinner: No problem. We simply unleash wave after wave of Chinese needle snakes. They'll wipe out the lizards.
Lisa: But aren't the snakes even worse?
Principal Skinner: Yes, but we're prepared for that. We've lined up a fabulous type of gorilla that thrives on snake meat.
Lisa: Then we're stuck with gorillas!
Principal Skinner: No, that's the beautiful part. When wintertime rolls around, the gorillas simply freeze to death.
Lisa: Hmm.