Tokyo Is the New Paris
noahpinion.blog
noahpinion.blog
My hope is that, with all the gentrification pain that this recent tourism push [0] is bringing, we will see a much larger and more stable international community settle in Tokyo. Currently, long term Japan life is best enjoyed by introverts (generally).
[0] https://www.nippon.com/en/ncommon/contents/japan-data/222973...
* 6mm~ to 32mm visitor increase in the past 10 years. Gov target is 60mm by 2030.
And long may it continue.
- Most of your socially active friends will most likely leave within 2-3 years of arriving
- If you were raised in the west, family and culturally similar communities are likely quite far away (both in flight hours and timezone changes)
- It is notoriously hard to break into Japanese social circles, regardless of language competency. Acquaintances are easy, but I'm talking about deeper connections.
I've only ever visited for a short trip so I'm curious to hear your take.
Rupert Wingfield-Hayes said it well in his "goodbye after 10 years" (sort of) writeup. [0]
> Will Japan gradually fade into irrelevance, or re-invent itself? My head tells me that to prosper anew Japan must embrace change. But my heart aches at the thought of it losing the things that make it so special.
[0] Japan was the future but it's stuck in the past https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-63830490
I know lots of people who went in the early 2000s, and I also visited myself a handful of times. It doesn’t seem to be quite so on the radar nowadays, which is strange considering how interesting it is.
I do notice less people talking about going in the past couple years (but that's due to COVID restrictions, etc)
> The Japanese cities of Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto have earned the first, second and third spots respectively on Condé Nast Traveler’s 2021 list of the best major cities in the world.
> The cities were selected in a poll of over 800,000 Condé Nast readers as part of the publication’s prestigious, long-running Reader’s Choice Awards, and won particular acclaim for their world-class cuisine, inspiring cultural attractions and seamless blending of tradition and modernity.
[0] https://theincentivist.com/japanese-cities-conde-nast-best-m...
Since the early 2000s, many Chinese cities, as well as other Asian cities like Seoul, rapidly developed in both scale and modernity. Tokyo sort of remained the same.
Ian Buruma - a former bit player in Tokyo's 1970s avant garde art scene who later became a New York Times correspondent - had many observations about this in his recent memoir:
What we had seen at Maro’s rehearsal studio was a very Japanese phenomenon. A theatrical method that had been created by a great artist, through sheer daring and experimentation, had become established as a style, passed on by masters of various schools, all with their own variations. This had happened to the tea ceremony, once a spontaneous expression of aesthetic joy in drinking tea, now a rigid set of rules, to be learned by wealthy ladies who pay a fortune to the various tea ceremony schools. The same thing had happened to classical theater and to flower arranging. And now, in a way, it was happening even to a once avant-garde dance form.
He also returned again and again to the mostly white expatriates he encountered at the time, and some of the characteristics and frustrations of their existence there:
Hovering on the fringes was where I liked to be, neither in nor out, neither one thing nor another, semidetached, a born fellow traveler, a male fag hag, an observer in the midst of sympathetic strangers. It was thrilling, but also a way of playing it safe. Perhaps that was why I was attracted to Japan, a society to which a foreigner could never belong, even if he wanted to.
... He, Donald, felt entirely at ease as an outsider. The great thing about Japan, he said, was that one was left alone. To be Japanese in Japan was to be caught in an almost intolerable web of rules and obligations. But the gaijin was exempt from all that. He could observe life with serene detachment, not being bound to anything or anyone. In Japan, Donald felt utterly, radically free.
[Donald] mentioned the “Seidensticker syndrome,” named after his friend, the scholar Edward Seidensticker. Ed habitually spent half the year in Japan. When he arrived in Tokyo, he was ready to kiss the ground. Everything was wonderful. Then, once he had more or less settled down, he began to get more and more irritated by “these people,” until after six months he was quite ready to go home.
> There's a lot to like about Tokyo, but there is a tendency toward conservatism
Where someone complains about a foreign culture being, well, foreign. At a certain point, I think, it’s critically important to stop comparing like this and instead frame it as a question.
But compared to the Big5 of trendy mega cities (NY, London, Paris, Tokyo and HK) the biggest thing is just that things *just works* ik Tokyo. Infrastructure is reliable, streets are clean (except maybe Kabukicho), people follow the rules, no Parisians, safe, trains come in time, things are clustered around stations so everything is close. I haven't lived in the 5 cities but talking/working for an extended time with people from there, the big feature seems to be that somehow Tokyo have so far dodged a lot of the issues big cities fall in to. There's some annoying quirks too, such as all the public transport stopping at around midnight, but that somehow added more to color an unique nightlife.
The biggest downside, probably compared to NY/London/HK is that it can feel quite lonely at times if you don't look or speak like a local. But there are hard-to-find microcosm of mini-communities, my recent favorite being SF-styled, mostly US expat populated Harry's Sandwich bar. When you come as a tourist you'll probably not find those, and like many of my friend just draw the conclusion that it's a lonely, isolating mega city, from all the "solo-friendly" stores and trains cladded with tired salary mens in suit you'll inevitably walk by。
But I do wonder why the sudden tourist surge? It have been crazy crowded after covid and almost all my friends decided to go to Tokyo this year. Is it really just opening up and the weak yen?
Both a melting pot society and a homogenous one have their pros and cons. I love the former, but I also don't pretend to think there aren't serious cons to a melting pot and pros to a homogeneity.
Meanwhile there are some differences, especially in policy, that are very easy to link to crime: Japan has practically no guns. Japan has universal healthcare. The US has a poverty rate of over 10%, while Japan has a poverty rate of under 2%. Japan builds housing. Japanese public education is much more equitable and supported by the national government.
Why is Japan able to do that, and the US isn't?
When practically everyone is a fellow Japanese, you don't have people griping about universal healthcare (or social safety nets in general) benefitting the "other" who "don't deserve it".
Or feeling that you need to own guns to "protect yourself from the other".
You're proposed link from homogeneity -> gun control is completely unsupported.
But a lot of pro-gun advocates cite that they want guns to protect themselves.
My general point stands. If everyone around you is part of your "in" group, you're more likely to be willing to help them out and less likely to see them as a threat.
I would like to believe that most people are able to transcend racial, ethnic, religious, or even national boundaries to help their fellow man.
However, reality shows me this is not the case.
This is not true, and not possible in practice. In any seemingly homogenous group there are various subgroups, often at odds with each other for whatever reason. It's just human nature.
Harmony has more to do with local culture, the economy and other quality of life issues. Have a look at a place like Australia, which has little conflict overall even though it has a large and growing immigrant population. That has to do with an egalitarian culture and being a fairly wealthy country with nice weather.
A more enlightening statistic is that about half of Australians have a parent that was born overseas, which means they have an ethnic background.
https://www.abs.gov.au/media-centre/media-releases/2021-cens...
But what is "local culture"? It's made up by the local people. In a homogenous society like Japan, it's Japanese culture.
In a melting pot society like the US, it's a mix of the product of old European immigrants that have mostly merged and assimilated with each other, African Americans forcibly brought over via the slave trade that emerged with their own culture, and finally combined with more recent arrivals from Asia/Africa/Latin America who are much less assimilated.
When one or more cultures meet, sometimes they adapt positively. Sometimes they adapt negatively. When you have so many cultures mixed together, there is bound to be friction.
That doesn't necessarily mean violence, but it can be something more subtle - like certain races or groups resisting interacting with each other beyond the bare necessities. I wouldn't be surprised if this is true in Australia too.
I'm Asian American, and I am ashamed to admit I have zero African American friends (I have Black friends, but they are all more recent African/European/Caribbean immigrants). Cultural norms and upbringing has a lot to do with it. At the risk of sounding too clinical, one of my goals is to genuinely befriend more African Americans.
Your view suggests you think that people rigidly stick to whatever culture they're born into, but that's not the case. The longer people stay in a country the more the local culture seeps in. The children of immigrants typically adopt the local culture, even if it has a ethnic flavor.
So there is a natural trend toward the local culture. If your view were true countries with permanent large immigration programs such as Australia, Canada and the US would over time become balkanised, but that's obviously not the case. Different ethnic groups tend to an understanding of each other rather than conflict. There isn't naturally friction due to ethnic differences, just like religions don't tend to be add odds with each others members.
You don't need to have friends from other ethnic groups, or a particular ethnic group, just like you don't need to have friends in other political or religious groups. Life isn't a bingo card. All you need to do is subscribe to a few common fundamental values, and that's generally easy for people in a given country to do, even if it takes some time.
Citation very much needed.
For instance Russia is socially and politically conservative, mostly "racially" (everyone is "white" because according to you that matters) homogeneous, anti-immigration (outside of limited amounts of labourers from the former Soviet republics), yet... it's not safe nor clean nor developed. Same can be applied to a host of different countries across the world.
Racism exists in countries like Japan too. Except the number of non-Japanese (or non East Asian who can often pass for Japanese) are statistically so insignificant that it is far less of an issue than say, the US.
One of my best friends is a huge anime fan. He's also caucasian-American. He finds a sense of wonder and exoticness traveling to Japan, and Asia in general.
I'm Asian. While I enjoy traveling to Asia, I don't get the same sense of wonder and exoticness as I do traveling to...Europe. Which coincidentally, he does not.
Tokyo is very closely analogous to New York City... but nothing in America, and very few cities in Europe or elsewhere in Asia, are anything like Sapporo.
Osaka-Kobe-Kyoto-Nara is practically a single megacity, at this point. (And you can arguably include Nagoya.)
Tokyo-Chiba-Yokohama is a hyper-megacity. Driving from one end of the other can take many hours.
But Sapporo is a rather isolated, standalone city. Hop in a car downtown, and you can find yourself in the woods within 20 minutes. I'm not exaggerating in the slightest.
And whereas Tokyo is a city of neighborhoods -- like the way Ikebukuro, Asakusa, and Shinjuku are rather self-contained spaces -- Sapporo has one primary downtown/nightlife district, which is very convenient. It's not inferior to any of Tokyo's neighborhoods, either; in fact, it's considerably larger than most of them. It also has a system of underground pedestrian paths that's one of the wonders of the world, IMO.
So it's a big city, surrounded by nature, without sprawl, with clean and well-defined spaces.
This is sometimes how I feel about Athens. It’s such a cool city, and the Acropolis is a marvelous site to see from a rooftop across the city. Yet I have this desire for the city to properly restore the Parthenon, paint it again, and turn the Acropolis into a public space of gathering. Many would object to that idea for legitimate reasons, but it makes the city look like a has-been, long past its peak. Ancient Greece was an area full of beautiful colors[0] rather than white and brown marble. I would love to see a return to that.
I need to give Tokyo a visit. I’m interested in cities that keep their character while also maintaining themselves and driving forwards.
[0] https://theacropolismuseum.gr/en/exhibition-programs/archaic...
When work had me go to Japan, that lack of any foundational familiarity was shocking. The people were kind and put up with someone slaughtering their language (and practicing their English) It added a level of exoticness that is hard to explain.
Best part was work had finally implemented a 'you must bring back receipts' for expenses. 10 pages of something was dropped off to the poor sod in accounting. Their face was priceless.
I miss both Paris and Tokyo...
There are probably fewer differences between Tokyo and where I’m from than between it and its modern self in the 70s, 80s or 90s even.
I’d be delighted to learn that that’s really not the case.
Though even so, I would probably keep on being hesitant as in my head it’s still peak 80s in Japan [2] and I’d really like to keep it that way.
Paris - The cultural capital of the EU. - Despite the amazing metro, the traffic is horrendous. If you drive a car you cannot go anywhere. - Cost of living is driving many Parisians to leave. That and all the petty theft. - If you can afford it, Paris is a great city.
Tokyo - Amazing livable megalopolis. Besides it’s ubiquitous shrines and temples, Japan doesn’t keep many old buildings around and usually rebuilds on top. Their museums while notable cannot compare with Paris - Amazing metro but the main train station Tokyo Station is a hopeless confusing maze albeit fun clean but god help you if you’re coming from the Narita Express and trying to find the exit for the metro. Not to mention that many old maps/diagrams are oriented not by NESW compass directions but wherever the imperial castle is relative to you. - Despite being a top tier city, it is affordable. If you don’t mind the concrete jungle , you can raise a family there. - If you want to fully embrace the Japanese culture and language, Tokyo is a great city.
But all in all, Tokyo was far more amazing.
Eiffel tower was nice but I was quite disappointed, was nothing like how the movies romanticized it.
I fully honour the author's preference. There are so many ways of judging a city, and looking at cocoa bars and speed of building construction seem very arbitrary to me. Are we talking about travelling? Living? A mix of both?
I can imagine that some of the similarities with Paris could be the size, a certain authenticity and history mixed with modernity, some kind of atmosphere, a food culture, lots of tourists amd crazy busy transportation systems?
I've never been to Tokyo, so it's hard for me to judge. But I've lived in Paris for a few years. Beautiful city to visit, atrocious to live in (by my standards, I know lots of people love it there, but also 3/4 of my friends kept explaining how they hated it there and would move, without acting on it... How Parisian!). This pretty much cured me against large cities.
I can imagine that you can do much better in livability, maybe that's what Tokyo achieved?
I'm also going to assume the author is referring to the mythical Paris of the early 20th century for its artist/creative opportunities. If that's the case, a couple things:
1. None of us actually experienced early 20th century Paris, so we judge it romantically on the output (particularly in English/Spanish) of creatives living there.
2. Do we have (or the author have) evidence of a similar kind of creative output (particularly in English/Spanish) from Tokyo? My sense is no, even though I like Japanese food and Japanese punk. I don't like or follow anima/manga so maybe that is a blind side for me to see such evidence.
3. Tokyo is cheaper than Paris/NYC/London, but it's still not super cheap, and Japan is not the easiest country to move to. I'm not aware of many "creative" foreigners moving semi-permanently to Tokyo in anything comparable to Paris, 20th or 21st century.
The usual issue is that Japanese culture is pretty understated, so the streetwear, the architecture, etc. is not something that immediately grabs attention like New York, Paris or Milan.
But see Zaha Hadid’s Tokyo Olympics stadium [1] vs the Japanese design that it got replaced with [2]
[1]: https://www.dezeen.com/2015/07/17/japan-scraps-zaha-hadid-to...
[2]: https://www.dezeen.com/2021/07/28/japan-national-stadium-ken...
I am sympathetic to making it easier to build, but we have to be honest about the trade-offs that have been made in some of these hyper dense asian cities. Namely, ugly buildings, and lack of green space.
It's also worth noting that these places rely on significant, long-term, investment in public transport infrastructure of the kind that they don't make in the US. This is something that's often missing from the debate.
Edit, I think people are misunderstanding my comment a bit. Personally, I'm favour of making it easier to build housing - I don't own property because it's too expensive and would love it to be cheaper.
I'm merely saying that I've seen a strand of thought amongst the right/wing VC crowd who believe in very aggressive liberalisation (pretty much build anything anywhere), which I don't think is practical or politically feasible.
It's possible that the bloggers I follow fit in my filter bubble, which is based around the California/London regions so there's likely selection bias.
Tried that. Didn't work. Now a generation of young people are going to have to move thousands of kms away or live in their parents basements until the boomers die.
The earth tried solving that. We destroyed the economy and caused untold mental damage to youngsters to prevent it.
Whenever people say they got it right this time, it really means they got it right this time.
I feel like having everybody move for work in the first place was a significant contributor to the problem.
https://www.curbed.com/2022/01/aoc-2022-pledge-pro-housing-y...
Sure, we could create housing for the thousands upon thousands of homeless people, we could allow for improvement that makes it more affordable to live, we could allow for economic growth - but hasn't anybody thought about how ugly that makes it all look?
It still has a population of 25,000 per square mile. London as a whole has a density of 14,600. You could add another 6 million people in London while maintaining a density which would allow a third of London to be open green areas.
London has historical parks/commons which are fantastic, but for cities which don't have many large parks, it's hard to retrofit them.
It's quite clear that you can have housing for 15 million people in the area of Greater London with the density and green space of Westminster.
Does that require grand architecture? Sure. Will it happen? Nope. But it's not a density problem, it's an allocation problem.
Instead great swathes of London are built over with high density semi and terrace housing with a tiny bit of poor green space per person (usually paved over to store a car which sits still 23 hours a day or more)
But the “investment in public transport” thing is a red herring. Prior to the pandemic, Tokyo Metro (a publicly owned private company) ran a profit. The other Tokyo subway, Toei, recovers about 75% of costs in fares. Transport for London regularly runs a surplus. The NYC MTA by contrast is at under 40%.
The NYC MTA receives over $7 billion in public support annually, and routinely gets billions in federal infusions. It got a $15 billion covid bail out. Transport for a London meanwhile has gotten 3.6 billion pounds over the next two years as it comes out of covid. NYC’s public investment dwarf’s London’s.
A mural in San Francisco cost $600k (!) to cover up due to environmental impact reports and legal fees.
Asking for more public spending is literally just asking to burn people's money.
Planning restrictions are also highly bipartisian. Both sides favour restrictions, often for different reasons and with different intent, and the result is no supply.
People like to point to Houston as not having zoning laws, but they have deed restrictions that behave in much the same way (and are even harder to undo). Houston does have some of the least restrictive planning rules and also has some of the lowest housing costs. This is not a coincidence.
Indeed, it seems to me more so that there is a "horseshoe" with respect to this, where both further left- and right-wing folks both favor more restrictive planning / zoning, for different reasons. On the left, it seems to be related to a skepticism of anything being less regulated having a general stench of laissez-faire capitalism, and on the right it seems to be more about local control over planning being the mechanism for keeping undesirables elsewhere.
And the more "centrist" people I follow on the right just don't seem interested in this topic at all, for whatever reason.
In fact, density allows for more green space. Don't let single-family home suburbs fool you. Lawns are not green space. Laws are a pathetic attempt at greenwashing suburbs that were made by clear cutting forests or destroying nature. The less space humans take, the more can be left for nature.
It might be fun if one is happy to mostly ignore the reality of the locals and treat it as a silly island resort like the stereotype of Thailand (including exiting the local labor force ASAP). If you want intellectual conversations or stimulating work alongside others don't bother.