Refurb weekend(s): Commodore/MOS KIM-1
oldvcr.blogspot.com
oldvcr.blogspot.com
The oldest KIM I'm personally aware of is a original (i.e., pre-Rev A) with a 6502 that still has the ROR bug. I should ask its owner what the date codes on that are.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj...
Perhaps the tinfoil was clipped to a ground? Would it then be protected from static shocks and other invisible (to the naked eye) damage?
Historically I've used flattened cardboard outside on top of a brick patio, and ensured I touch a grounded circuit before e.g. replacing capacitors. No e-deaths due to static yet, though my equipment is nearly all from ~circa 1999 or newer, and I believe newer equipment typically incorporates some static protections into designs.
TFA's PCB layout connections are so flowy and beautiful, they remind me of a past HN submission about rounded PCB circuit wiring: "Melting KiCad" https://mitxela.com/projects/melting_kicad / https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31108652
p.s. this is an amazing writeup, thank you to the OP for submitting and to the author for taking the time and care. Really, really cool. This reminds me a bit of a Ken Sherriff analysis https://righto.com (!) <3
Nice to see this one restored to its full glory. Trying to explain to my kids that once upon a time the full working memory of my computer was a very small fraction of one of the photos they share online was a fun experience.
Note the gorgeous very high quality circuit board.
As for the article: I'm not particularly impressed with the workmanship, as a kid I'd repair boards of this and higher complexity regularly and lifting traces and cutting traces while doing such a simple repair would not normally happen to me. One way to do better would be to use a good quality rework iron with a vacuum pump. Not cheap but if you work on old and nice hole through stuff like this well worth the investment. Otherwise you end up overheating the board. A repair should look more or less as if the board wasn't touched, apart from maybe the gloss on the solder. And make sure to use 63/37 'old fashioned' solder.
Writing code that we hand assembled taught me a lot. It’s probably still in a box at my folks place somewhere in the garage.
Of course it's yours and you're absolutely within your rights to work on it and your analysis of what was wrong was spot on (and very impressive). But these are getting rare.
I wonder what caused the chip to fail, once in the circuit they are normally quite solid. Keep 'm rolling ;)
I'm told that RAM is a common failure on KIMs, though this was the first one I've personally experienced with my own set.
And yes, everything is a learning experience, I'm pretty sure you'd have a much easier time of it if you did it again. Please do consider getting a proper rework kit, it's well worth it if you're going to do this sort of thing regularly. And in a strange way those skills are getting more valuable again, fewer and fewer people around that can repair vintage stuff. One of my 'side projects' is restoring vintage DX-7's, they're fun to work on and there are enough of them around that even if you buy one that seems to be total junk you'll be able to get another one going and have parts left over.
I have built two replicas now, the most recent was the PAL-1 [1] kit. I also built one from Briel Computers some time ago but his business appears to have disappeared.
The nice thing about the KIM-1 replicas/clones, as opposed to some of the Arduino or Raspberry Pi based ... emulators? .., is of course the real 6502 chip as the CPU.
Also nice about the KIM-1 in general is that the six 7-segment LED displays give you both the address and data at that address at once (and in hexadecimal). Other early 8-bit machines of course displayed data in binary (via das blinkenlights).
(Another clone that looked to be outstanding was made by Corsham Technologies. Sadly the man behind the clone died just a month ago and so those machines have also stopped production.)
[1] https://www.tindie.com/products/tkoak/pal-1-a-mos-6502-power...