Once again only from my experience...good programmers are capable of...thinking. Big shocker there but programmers tend to think about why they do and do not do stuff in certain ways (and even if it makes sense to do them).
I'm well aware there are excellent architects/managers but from my experience the good ones were strong programmers before and then "moved up" but they always understood the code level. And that's why I'm not afraid of "AI will take all programming jobs" scenarios...because even if the (en)coding would all be done by AI, to become really good at directing said AI you also hove to be good at programming (at least in my opionion).
But apart from that, I also see programming as an artistic endeavor at times. There's a lot of creativity and self expression that goes into certain kinds of programs. And writing good code that solves interesting problems is actually hard. I'm pretty sure the initial Quake engine was harder to write than getting the requirements right for said engine for example.