Repair adventure: A single white LED causing stuck keys on a RN988 keyboard
halestrom.net
halestrom.net
It's a small anecdote, but inspiring since I hope to also get to the point where I can repair something on the component level one day.
This is why my AV receiver still works. :-)
So you start by just doing a visual scan of all the caps on a board to see if any are bulging? If nothing is apparent, where do you go from there?
The part in question: https://i.imgur.com/hZDA08y.jpg
Repaired: https://i.imgur.com/IMbBUeN.jpg
Start with a visual inspection, looking for any components which appear to be visibly damaged. For capacitors this would be something bulging, but if something has failed thermally the chip might be burned. If you see anything burned, though, I would exercise caution before proceeding.
After that, measure the output of each power supply with a multimeter and confirm that it is at the appropriate voltage level. If you find something which is off, you need to confirm that all of the additional components supporting the power supply are present and functioning. You can measure resistors on the PCB with a multimeter.
Some AV Receivers will also fail after a number of heating / cooling cycles. In this case, the solder joints on the relays have gone bad (physically disconnected) and they can just be soldered again to correct the problem.
Honestly, AV Receivers are a great place to start since they are generally both well documented and designed to be serviced.
edit: one other thing -- you can check the clock output of different crystals / oscillators, etc, if you have an oscilloscope. This can be useful to know if the clock is operating at all, and, if it is, confirm that it is clocking at the appropriate rate.
There were a few that were visiting bulging or had leaked, but I replaced all of them just in case.
It seems fairly sensible to me to double up the lighting leds as diodes, from an extreme cost-engineering perspective.
Of course, it does mean you can't turn the lighting off ...
I have an optical-switch k/b. If you need a diode per key anyway you may as well have an optical sensor instead, and have no key debounce, it could be waterproof, spark-free, separation of concerns between sensing and the mechaical switch itself for easy hot-swap switches, etc. To me it's the obvious future, but it seems true mechanical k/b fans aren't with the program yet.
Whole lot less landfill tho.
I had gotten nearly two decades of use from the three of my Microsoft Natural keyboards (the original one). They weren't that expensive at the time.
I'm currently running a pair of MS Natural 4000s (one bought used from eBay) that are each approximately a decade old. I had to take them apart once to clean the key membrane, but they've been fine since. (Just looking at one of them now in front of me... it could really use a good vacuuming.)
It doesn't matter that he lives comfortably and could much more easily replace the hardware. He enjoys the process of taking something broken and making it useful again.
I liken it to spending hours configuring and modifying open source software when a paid option exists, if you have the expertise and/or interest. And doing that with hardware has the added benefit of reducing waste, which is something I admire.
Our brains all generate relatively the same amount of happy/sad chemicals, so it turns out the satisfaction of winning a nobel peace prize and the satisfaction this person feels fixing their dumpster dived keyboard can only be so different in magnitude.
It's not like doing universally meaningful things unlocks some kind of super-happiness, so there's no reason to shy away from "unmeaningful" things if they bring you joy.
Whether this represents a good or bad use of one's time, who can say. Some things, people do because they enjoy them, even if the activity doesn't make complete economic sense.
I'll never go back to membrane keyboards.
I have a rosewill that is made from cherry brown switches and apparently the minimum electronics to make it work reliably unlike the low end one OP wound up with. Probably cost me $80 six years ago but it works the same as it was new, and I expect to get a decade out of it no problem.