I need to go in the Bios and specify explicitly how much of the system RAM I want allocated exclusively of the integrated GPU and the rest stays available for system RAM.
The reason is because Ryzen 5000 APUs seem to be a job rushed out the door so they're just a Zen 3 CPU with a separate Vega GPU glued together on the same die, but they're not a homogenous design, designed to work as one unit, like the APU of the PS5, so memory wise they're unaware of each other, even though AMD calls them APUs, they're not really, but more like separate CPU and GPU on the same die.
I wish I knew about this limitation at the time, as Intel chips with integrated graphics have unified memory.
But I don't doubt there still exist software (Firmware, OS, driver, graphics API) problems where unified memory ends up being used badly. There doesn't seem to be evidence that much if any of it are because of hw limitations.
But there is no reason you can't do both. Intel is already by putting HBM on the Xeon Max. It still has separate memory slots, because they're for two different things. HBM is fast and expensive. DDR costs less so you can have more of it for the same amount of money and the large majority of workloads aren't memory-bound.
You could then have systems with DIMM slots that aren't populated because the CPU has enough HBM to satisfy you, others that cost less with no HBM and the same amount of DDR, and still others that have say 16GB of HBM and 128GB of DDR. Both of which are still upgradable, but if you want more HBM it comes with a new CPU.
Why not? For the right workloads, the GPU is the important thing anyways. It's not that different from rotating disks through a machine.
I’ve been hoping thunderbolt would make GPU enclosures more of a thing, but they seem to still be bottlenecked by even that pretty good interface (last I checked, at least).
Keep in mind that even a basic PCIe card can pull up to 75 watts and that you'll probably need some sort of external power supply. There are two main routes you can go- use a second external laptop power brick, or what I did- slap an entire computer power supply in there.
I bought an SFX power supply from EVGA, who has an awesome B-stock program where you can get returned / refurbished stuff for cheaper than normal and it still comes with a warranty. If you do decide to use a computer PSU, I'd highly recommend one that's modular, because you won't need a bunch of the wires and they take up a lot of space quickly.
To tell the power supply to turn on, you can either use the 'paper clip trick' to jumper it on, or get an "ADD2PSU" board (basically a relay on a PCB) and use a USB cable to power the relay and you should be good to go.
If you use a laptop power supply, you'll either need something that's 12V or get step down boards or a Pico PSU or something like that.
The thing to search up is "M.2 NGFF to PCIe" or something like that. I'd recommend getting ones with some kind of cable and an open back of slot design so that you don't wind up needing two adapters for one thing.
Adapters and cables are available from the usual suspects- Amazon, eBay, and Aliexpress will all have what you want.
This is a lot of information, but this is legitimately pretty easy to do as long as you make sure you check all the boxes- PCI lanes, external power, and something to keep the new stuff you're strapping on safe.
The Intel only crowd is such a sad bunch
Before that, the last big change was Haswell low power states ten years ago. If your old PSU didn't meet that standard, you would probably be ok if you just disable the lower power sleep states.