The war on Japanese knotweed
theguardian.com
theguardian.com
Inspired by a demo reel of a ground cooking weed remover, I've experimented with using the tea kettle to kill stuff in my drive way. Works pretty good. A few square inches at a time. I poke a few holes and pour in boiling water.
The industrial size tool covers the ground with a foam, to create a thermal blanket. And then it cooks the ground. It looks like those street pothole fixing tractors, but using steam, instead of flames to remelt the asphalt. (The foam is like a thick bubble bath and will rinse away.)
Just curious. I recently became a "forrest steward" volunteer, and knotweed was specifically called out in training. Do not touch! Immediately escalate!
Ignorant, naive me thought blackberry and ivy were the final bosses.
Reading it is quite chilling. Getting rid of the plant is extremely difficult, requiring displacing several meters depth worth of soil, or using extremely toxic chemicals.
There have been some pilot trials approved in Europe (Netherlands, UK) using biological control with psyllids imported from Japan in the recent years. We'll see how that goes.
If you do ever see an ailanthus seedling, dig it out if you can. They're terrible and I've even seen them crowding out young redwoods here in northern CA. https://extension.psu.edu/tree-of-heaven
https://www.cabidigitallibrary.org/doi/10.1079/cabicompendiu...
Those importers should have taken the name "knotweed" into account.
https://www.invadingspecies.com/invaders/plants/dog-strangli...
What’s it called now?
Urectum.
Imazapyr is slower-acting but more effective than other herbicides. As you can see in this study, which compared several herbicides applied with spraying, the imazapyr formulation performed worse than all others for up to 58 days, but after 333 days, the knotweed was 95% gone, better than any others, even the formulation that mixed imazapyr with glyphosate.
Evaluation of Imazapyr, Glyphosate, and Triclopyr for Japanese Knotweed Control https://weedscience.ca.uky.edu/files/japaneseknotweed2005.pd...
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Here’s another study - 96% of imazapyr-treated trees were in the highest defoliation class vs. 62% for glyphosate:
Efficacy of ‘hack and squirt’ application of imazapyr, triclopyr, and glyphosate to control the invasive tree species Chinese tallowtree | US Forest Service Research and Development
https://www.fs.usda.gov/research/treesearch/35461
"These results indicate that imazapyr can be used to eradicate Chinese tallowtree by ‘hack and squirt’ injection without short-term (12 months) damage to dominant live oak trees."
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Controlling Knotweed in the Pacific Northwest (this mentions stem injection using glyphosate)
https://www.invasive.org/gist/moredocs/polspp01.pdf
"Although time-consuming, not only does this approach essentially eliminate drift, but Clark County (WA) Weed Management reports obtaining 100% control in one treatment by injecting 5 ml of 100% Aquamaster or Round Up Pro into each stem of a given clump. More than 20 patches were so treated"
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Here they also use glyphosate: https://web.archive.org/web/20030404152410/http://www.co.cla...
"If 38 of 50 canes are injected, expect the twelve that were NOT injected to survive and reproduce. EACH CANE HAS ITS OWN SEPARATE RHIZOME SYSTEM. Even though the injection process is initially time consuming, it is more cost-effective than several trips to the same site for foliar applications made over years with minimum results."
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None of these studies mention the specific technique of using stem injection with imazapyr, which I think is likely to be the most effective method. Although I haven't yet tried imazapyr on knotweed myself, I used an extremely minimal amount to kill several different species of obnoxious shrubs.
I used it to kill:
- Japanese barberry
- Sumac
- Elm saplings
- Fox grape
All these had been growing from the base of the external walls of my parents' house and had been uncontrolled for decades despite (probably-not-frequent-enough) cutting.
The amount I used was maybe a fluid oz. in total for all of these, and that was probably overkill. I just cut a flap into the bark in such a way as to maximally expose the cambium, then applied a few drops and tied the flap closed with some string. I did this to some sumac suckers right in the middle of a bunch of my mother’s day lilies and my stepfather’s blueberries and they weren’t affected at all.
In the case of the sumac and others, it took a couple weeks before the plant was visibly wilting, but after a while, even untreated suckers several yards away died. The fox grape didn’t show signs of wilting at first, but was dead by the following spring (I treated in early July, which is actually less than optimal. Late summer is recommended because of the predominant direction of sap flow at that time - from the leaves to the roots)
I have a meat syringe which I plan to use to inject knotweed when the opportunity arises.