Everyone Was Wrong About Reverse Osmosis–Until Now
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That is, the long-accepted “solution-diffusion” theory that the water dissolved and diffused across the membrane is wrong. That instead, the membrane has spontaneous tunnels created through the pressure/heat/friction. And the tunnels are ~5 angstroms in diameter, allowing clusters of ~1.5 angstrom water molecules through.
That's fairly exciting, as material designers can now target and optimize for that behavior.
I was hoping for more detail on how it keeps salt from following the same path. Individual NaCl bonded clusters are larger than water molecules, but searching around suggests they aren't always much larger.
Some people have also experimented with single and double layers of graphene with a few very small pores. Because they are so thin, you don't need as much porosity for high transport rates.
You still have fouling issues, though.
Also, if you take some fritted glass and wrap it around a solid core, such that the holes don't go anywhere — i.e. they're just pits that water molecules (but not anything larger) can enter, and then get stuck there by surface tension — then you've get https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molecular_sieve s.
That's literally individual silicon atoms removed
"The nearest neighbour distance is 0.235 nm" https://www.princeton.edu/~maelabs/mae324/glos324/silicon.ht...
I think that this is interesting question, and should not be waved away with "just drill some 0.2nm holes, use a real small drill bit"
0.2nm is tiny, given that it's on a scale that impacts how H2O molecules behave.
It's also smaller than our ability to make the circuits in computer chips, which are currently > 1 mn (1).
Use a laser? Light with a comparable wavelength is x-rays. As used in the chip manufacturing (2)
This is about size of the spacing between individual atoms (3)
So it seems like a material with 0.2nm holes "drilled" into it would be a major engineering feat at least.
1) https://research.ibm.com/blog/1nm-chips-vtfet-ruthenium
Also, for membranes, it’s not only the size and shape of the ‘holes’ that count. Many have specific chemical properties that do not solely filter on particle size.
Lots of curious laypersons here, and it's often a useful way to learn. Usually it's pretty easy for an expert to answer such questions.
In this case, if you ask "can we just do this" you should follow through with "how big is that actually, what's of comparable size?" We can all google this, or learn how to. It's a useful way to learn. You won't learn how to find things out, by always just asking "can't we just" questions and walking away.
In this case, soon you'd find out that 0.2nm is on the same scale as the spacing between individual atoms in a silicon crystal.
Literal "drill" bits for removing 1 atom at a time are obviously out of the question.
It is 10x smaller than the 2nm, the scale of the best x-ray lithography computer chip manufacturing processes.
It doesn’t imply that there should be a solution but you still want to learn why it might not work. Often you can continue the conversation enough to either exclude it or think some more about the problems that are described.
https://www.princeton.edu/~maelabs/mae324/glos324/silicon.ht...
So no, you don't get drill bits that are 1-2 atoms wide.
Also it would take a long time to "drill" a useful number of holes if you do it one by one.
Use X-ray lithography maybe? The wavelength can be short enough and it might be more feasible to do in bulk.
It's probably the 'constant concentration' part that is confounding the two. It is connecting number of particles with volume, whereas the canonical ensemble has them as separate terms.
> The Na+ hydration shell, which is formed by three water molecules, is quite stable while the K+ ion can only perturb the water structure in its immediate neighborhood so that it is unable to attract the water molecules. As a result the diameter of the hydrated Na+ is about 0.5 nm while the K+ diameter is equal to its ionic diameter.
Basically in water Na+ and Cl- are surrounded by water molecules attracted by electrostatic forces. This will add bulk to the naked ion and they are reasonably stable/robust
You can get an intro into solvation shells here[1]
[0] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0005272896....
Edit to add: Apparently I'm easily confused. I thought water softening was happening by reverse osmosis, but it's a different mechanism.
Googling for reverse osmosis minerals will bring you to a large number of probably fabricated claims about water pH and health that ultimately align on taste preference.
> “Remineralization is typically to enhance the flavor of the water, because reverse osmosis reduces the level of minerals in the water significantly, and some consumers prefer the taste of the water when there is enhanced mineral content,” explains Rick Andrews, of the National Sanitation Foundation’s Global Water Program. - https://www.thespruce.com/best-reverse-osmosis-systems-45868...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ISPRING-Premium-10-in-Universal-...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Express-Water-Alkaline-Water-Fil...
https://thewatergeeks.com/how-to-remineralize-ro-water/
etc
If you don't do this and have particularly hard water the membranes foul pretty rapidly.
In the case of undersink systems pumping out two gallons or so a day from standard municipal water, it's probably less important.
I only know this because I've been playing with osmosis systems for a few years and have built one that does around 150 gallons a day from undersink system parts with 2 membranes, some filters and pumps for my garden (otherwise my water is simply too hard to grow all the things I want to grow).
Yes, in the big scheme of things its a rounding error against industrial uses but that still doesn't mean I'm going to leave my hose bib running 24/7.
That's actually a very optimistic figure IME:
I recently started using a consumer under-sink RO system from GE Appliances at my off-grid cabin, the kind you find at Home Depot.
If you use the included pressurized accumulator tank, the stated efficiency is ~10%.
Since I'm off-grid, the reject line is run to a 5-gallon water cooler bottle, making product:reject water ratio comparisons trivial. Even 10% is somewhat optimistic.
The efficiency is about double if you disable the pressurized accumulator, that way there's no pressure on the other side of the membrane (except when stopped). It's not a simple fixed ratio since the efficiency decreases as the accumulator fills and the pressure difference across the membrane approaches zero. It's actually pretty insane how wasteful the system is as-delivered if you use the accumulator, towards 100% full it's mostly just rejecting water for an hour+.
Without the accumulator, but using the included reject water restriction orifice, it's more like 20-25%. I've ended up adding an adjustable restrictor valve on the reject water line to keep it closer to the 3:1 you described, which shouldn't damage the membrane AIUI.
I guess it's just safe defaults they ship in an unsophisticated system connecting to potentially high inlet pressures. This combined with a luxurious pressurized accumulator tank, makes it spectacularly wasteful of perfectly good water. Most wouldn't even realize the waste volumes having the reject line plumbed into the sink drain.
I've been making huge hexagonal concrete pavers with the reject water...
Anyone with an RO system living in a water-scarce region should install one! It'll save you many gallons a day, and has no downsides, unlike most other water reduction devices (like weak-flushing toilets or barely-misting shower heads).
The "pressurized accumulator" I'm referring to is just a water storage tank in the form of a bladder inside an air-pressurized steel vessel. A smaller version of the tank you find next to practically any well-pump to conserve pump cycling/wear and tear/smooth pressure spikes... Its participation in this system post-membrane is wasting water, not conserving it.
It's included from the factory just so nobody has to wait for filtered water to pass the membrane at time of use, instead experiencing an instant powerful jet of water out of the filtered water faucet.
Installed with a standard hydraulic shut off valve (ASO) you won't see any issues but you won't get much in the way of improved storage pressure. You will just see improved product/waste ratio as the pump negates the back pressure from the tank. The downsides are the periodic thumping noise and the added complexity of the extra tubings and fittings.
Installed without an ASO valve the permeate pumps will cause some TDS creep and bleed high TDS product water into the storage tank each time the system stops and starts. This will mix with the low TDS product water and raise the average up somewhat. The amount will vary on usage behavior but it's a noticeable TDS bump for most users.
I think the RO filter is still a small cartridge, the thing that looks like a white bbq propane tank is just a water reservoir since the filtering is very slow.
If you (US-based) want some residential/commercial RO membranes or water softeners for a reasonable price, I've had these at all the homes and apartments of family and self for 20 years.
Retail channel: https://wateranywhere.com
Commercial channel: https://www.appliedmembranes.com
My mom's house in Texas had the following freighted together:
- Whole house filtration (3x 20" big blue + 2 bypass valves)
- Water softener of sufficient grain reduction capacity - uses rock salt for cation exchange sodium for calcium in the presence of the catalyst bed. Creates water that's nicer to bathe and wash with, but it's probably not potable and can't be used to water plants.
- RO - 100 GPD - 3x 10" filters + RO membrane + UV + 1 post filter + permeate pump (reduces waste and transfers pressure from waste to feed). It's a PITA to run the tubing to refrigerator, sink, and wherever else you want it, but it's a one time thing. I used oversized tubing 3/8 ID to increase flow rate and reduce loss over a long run.
Initial cost is about $4k. Ongoing cost is about $40-50/year for whole house filtration and $60-80/year for RO depending on water quality. The RO and whole house filter setup should be sanitized every 6 months using appropriate supplies and methods.
Great care and research has to be taken choosing effective whole-house filter and RO filter cartridges to trap potential contaminants. At a minimum, the water should be sampled and tested by a lab and the local health department. There are specialized filters for heavy metals, chloramines, nitrates, and such. Here are some: https://wateranywhere.com/filters-and-housings/kx-extruded-c...
Mom's RO setup produces water <2 ppm at a resistance of 1 MΩ/cm. It won't be as good elsewhere without sufficient pressure and if the water has higher ppm of dissolved solids.
Bottom line: Never drink US tap water. Flint, MI isn't an aberration. (My mom's extended family lost several members due to cancer from polluted water at a house they shared around Durango, Colorado in the 4 corners area.)
I'd like to plug https://www.freshwatersystems.com/.
I built a system that does around 150 gallons a day from undersink parts, some filters, pumps, an IBC tote tank I got at the feed store and a softener. Excluding the softer total cost was under $500. It's for my garden and the animals.
"In a study published in April, Elimelech’s team proved that the once-frustrating assumption about how water moves through a membrane is, indeed, wrong. They replace it with a “solution-friction” theory that water molecules travel in clusters through tiny, transient pores within the polymer, which exert friction on them as they pass through. The physics of that friction matter, because understanding it could help people design membrane materials or structures that make desalination more efficient or better at screening out undesirable chemicals, Elimelech says."
Cool engineering story.
Anyone try any such thing so far?