Framework Laptop Cupholder Expansion Card
printables.com
printables.com
Someone say that this is pointless since you can do the same thing by utilizing existing tools like your table!
I really wish cars had more modular docking systems for electronics, drinks, snacks and sunglasses.
What you're looking for is a "cup holder expander" or "cup holder adapter". Much like the cigarette lighter became a power delivery standard because it's there, so too has the cup holder become a standard, although admittedly quite a bit more nascent.
https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/owner-resources/vehicle...
https://www.thedrive.com/news/44276/ford-releases-blueprint-...
Turns out caffeine was all that was in the way of AGI.
That's easy! It was submitted, and subsequently upvoted.
- Expansion cards: https://github.com/FrameworkComputer/ExpansionCards
- Expansion bay: https://github.com/FrameworkComputer/ExpansionBay
- Input modules: https://github.com/FrameworkComputer/inputmodule-rs
Besides that, I love the laptop.
I think it might have to do with my using full-disk encryption, but I've been unwilling to go all the way through attempting a fresh install to fix.
Being at an airport and closing it, putting it in the bag, boarding, resuming work. Or relocating at home from table to desk to couch, things you do with a laptop cost you battery and heat with a framework?
https://support.apple.com/guide/mac-help/what-is-power-nap-m...
But my Framework never actually goes all the way to sleep, even when it looks like it has, and I've given up trying to figure out why.
Also, I would rather take a r5 and have increased battery life (I bet the r7 are binned for higher perf and have higher leakage), but they only offered the bigger battery with the r7, last time I looked.
16" is definitely big (I have a desktop and docking station anyway), so I've refrained from ordering for now, hile I decide :|
I'm at the point where I'm not even looking for laptops with coreboot OOTB, I just want a good laptop that is not fused to the vendor's keys. I'll port coreboot to it myself.
I think you can draw a maximum of 100W via a USB-C port? (Though most laptops would really struggle with that, even when plugged in.)
How much heat does a cup of tea lose per second at eg 20C room temperature and 60C water temperature? (Or whatever you want to keep your beverage at?)
To counteract a 2-centigrade-degree drop per minute, you'd only need 35W to keep 250ml at a constant 85C. (Or 65C if that's where you start it.)
Nit: please use Celsius (and "°C" if you can)
See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermodynamic_beta
> Though completely equivalent in conceptual content to temperature, β is generally considered a more fundamental quantity than temperature owing to the phenomenon of negative temperature, in which β is continuous as it crosses zero whereas T has a singularity.[6]
> In addition, β has the advantage of being easier to understand causally: If a small amount of heat is added to a system, β is the increase in entropy divided by the increase in heat. Temperature is difficult to interpret in the same sense, as it is not possible to "Add entropy" to a system except indirectly, by modifying other quantities such as temperature, volume, or number of particles.
In principle USB C goes up to 240W now, but that isn't relevant here.
USB-C power is negotiated, with a full blown two way negotiation if you want more than 5 volts (or to draw more than 3 amps). Framework laptop ports don't support outputting more than 5V or 3A and so will max out at 15W.
That is, this isn't a "struggle" -- because USB-C has negotiated power in general, just because it is possible to build USB-C ports that support 240W doesn't mean that a random port on a battery powered laptop has to support anything close to that.
The port powers up in the default low power mode, but the attached device can signal that it supports more if the device can provide it.
You want to start off with low power — since starting off with high power could damage devices that don’t support it.
Laptop: *Om nom nom, 5 volts, yum!*
Power supply: Hey, I can do 5 V, 9 V, 15 V and 20 V
Laptop: I hear ya.
Laptop: Can I get 20 Volts?
Power supply: I hear ya.
Power supply: Here's 20 volts!
You get the idea.All the way up to whatever the device will accept. Past that, the device rejects the offer from the power supply.
The original spec lists 5 V, 9 V, 15 V and 20 V, with support of for volts being kinda common because that's what cars use so the circuitry support already exists. According to spec, the charger is supposed to support all the voltages lower than it's max, but ofc not everything is spec compliant.
20 Volt @ 5 Amp is 100 watts which was the old maximum power usb-c PD could do. But it turns out that wasn't enough, so they renamed that to be Standard Power Range (SPR) and released when Extended Power Range (EPR). EPR adds adds 28 V, 36 V and 48 V @ 5 Amps, to the spec, for a new maximum of 240 Watts of power.
(Longer desc of the conversation in table 5 in https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva842/slva842.pdf )
It's the Framework of coffee mugs.
They claim that it changes phase right around the 63 degC mark (which, again, is claimed to be the sweet spot for where most hot beverages are enjoyed). Therefore, a hot drink will quickly move to that temperature when the poured liquid is above that transition temp (the liquid-phase insulator being a good conductor), and then stay close to it after dropping below the transition point, when the solid insulator re-forms and stops conducting heat well. If true, I think it's a really neat application of high-tech materials science in everyday life.
[1] https://joeveo.com/pages/the-temperfect-mug (see "Details for the Technogeek)
https://www.yeti.com/ would be my preferred vendor for that sort of thing.
grep for technogeek [here](https://joeveo.com/pages/the-temperfect-mug)
(I mean that's not a crazy notion: if you have any warm mug and fill it with cold stuff, the warm mug will heat up your cold stuff.)
You are right that if you keep your mug closed, there shouldn't be any energy flowing back into your drink.
The steps would be:
1) Drink > 140, PCM solid
2) energy flows drink -> PCM, drink cools toward 140, PCM liquifies gradually
Then two possibilities:
3a) drink cools to 140-epsilon before PCM liquifies fully
4a) PCM gives energy to drink in dynamic equilibrium, while also losing energy to environment, solidifying
5a) PCM is entirely solid at 140
6a) PCM drops below 140. drink gives energy to PCM and PCM to environment. drink -> PCM thermal conductivity is presumably much higher than PCM -> env, so drink and PCM remain at same temp
OR
3b) PCM liquifies fully before drink hits 140-epsilon
4b) drink and PCM stay at thermal equilibrium (see 6a) while cooling toward 140. energy flows drink -> PCM and PCM -> environment. The former is faster, so the PCM continues liquifying
5b) PCM is entirely liquid at 140. Due to thermal equilibrium, drink is also at 140.
6b) drink stays at 140 while PCM solidifies
7b) see 5a
8b) see 6a
So there will be energy going from the drink to the environment through the lid, which in turn allows energy to flow back from PCM -> drink.
The drink on the other hand will change temperature as it looses energy.
The drink will lose energy through the lid, leading to a small temperature gradient between the PCM and the drink. This gradient should allow energy to flow back from the PCM into the drink.
Insulated keep cup on display at any cafe is around $15-25 AUD.
Lid is tight and leak proof. I trust it inside my pack. The handle and carabiner are essential components too. Handle hangs over bike handlebars, side of canoe or seat, belt. Carabiner does, well it does what carabiners do!
https://imgur.com/a/5f9rMA2 This pic is from 2014. It's lost the rubber base since then but none of its usefulness.
"Please note: because of recently-instituted tax collection requirements, we are no longer shipping to the EU or UK—sorry!"
https://amazon.com/dp/B07G9J4745
and set it to 140, for nice warm coffee which it will maintain.
It works well with 24w, so usb-c should have more than enough power.
So I wonder, even if that's not the case here... :-) how much would it take, and what would happen? Would the cupholder break first or would a key cap fly off first?
And what is on the top-10 list of the least-safe 3D-printed laptop accessories?
1. https://twitter.com/FrameworkPuter/status/165310366873094963...
Really? I can see it with PLA, but i thought PETG was supposed to handle it fine (as long as you are not using it with giant glasses filled with liquid). And PETG is pretty much the second most common type of a filament after PLA.
Note: i could be entirely wrong about this, but I was under the impression that this use-case is exactly what PETG is made to handle.
Now a USB-C version that was a phone holder that also charged the phone ...
I am abruptly reminded of the PDA that was so small that it synced by fitting into a laptop:
https://hackaday.com/2021/03/11/rex-wasnt-really-a-pda-it-wa...
Nowadays I scratch that itch with the steamdeck, which is actually useful as a standalone computing device connected to normal peripherals
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2008/01/apple-patents-idiosy...
[0] https://www.youtube.com/live/CSOF8RFrihM?feature=share&t=982...
That way I don't need any USB ports included on the case. I can just pick any I want as a 5.25 bay.
Or maybe 18 how swap 3.5 harddrive bays. Or a memory card reader. Or 3 120mm fans. Or 12 small drawers. Or a cigarette lighter and beverage holder (real thing).
I have an old case that I love, but the front IO is hideously outdated. Expandability like the framework laptop is something we had for tower computers, but we did away with it to make them look nice.
Those who know, know.