FlipperZero: 1 Month Battery Life with Firmware Update
blog.flipperzero.one
blog.flipperzero.one
Of course he uses it to turn off TV's and open Tesla charge doors..
I used a USB RTL-SDR ($15) and a Raspberry Pi to receive and transmit, but I think the Flipper Zero can do it all-in-one.
Beyond that the official firmware also limits the available frequencies by the device's region setting. There is a full list of the regional limits here: https://docs.flipperzero.one/sub-ghz/frequencies but they are of course intended to limit the device to only frequencies legally authorized for unlicensed remote control type uses in the region in question. It should generally work for any household appliance remotes, as long as the appliance was designed for the region it's being used in.
Either way, there's a reason I started both of those paragraphs with references to the official firmware. The device firmware is open source and there are multiple community-developed forks as a result, some of which make these limits configurable by the user.
Unfortunately not, I've got multiple fans from different manufacturers that were sold at major US retailers (i.e., not purchased online) and I can read the remote's transmission but I'm region locked out of transmitting it from the flipper zero. Going to try out some of the custom firmware though, thanks for the details.
Confused: if it (even irregularly) works under those conditions, have you tried not doing such, and see if it works more often?
> The furi_hal_os_sleep() function performs tick suppression inside the OS domain.
Reminds me that many eons ago I witnessed the introduction of CONFIG_NO_HZ in Linux, is it the default now? Combined with timer coalescing this makes for big energy savings.
Can you provide more detail?
I'd be happy to return the favor with my use of NO_HZ and NO_HZ_FULL!
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2013/06/how-os-x-mavericks-w...
Generally the hardest part is simply making sure that the device can wake up correctly and quickly enough under all situations. Also, tracking down unexpected power draws gets into a nice crossover between electrical and firmware design teams which can either be great or extremely frustrating for either side of that interaction.
I know it's been a problem on MacOS forever, like back in the 68k days. Some peripherals never come back from sleep and you have to power cycle them to get them to "wake up." And sometimes MacOS doesn't come back either.
Nordic parts are easier - they actually have low power sleep that is fairly automatic.
Came here to say this. Started with the STM32WB5x for a BLE project but got so frustrated with it so I switched over to NRF52. Never looked back. I love (and use) the STM32x for many other applications but the STM32WB BLE-solution is just too opaque with the (close sourced) BLE stack running on the secondary core while still requiring a lot of low level collaboration from the main application core. Would have been a lot easier if was more isolated and just provided a standard HCI interface or something. I suppose one could argue to use a dedicated BLE IC in this case.
Anyway, I'm very happy with the NRF52 I'm using. The events, tasks and peripheral interconnects is also a really nice feature. Documentation is stellar as well IMO. My main gripe with it is that it only comes with one UART port. Two would have been nice. Perhaps the NRF52 successors comes with more. Haven't checked really.
EDIT: typo
I'm pretty sure the STM32WB can go as low as 2µA though. If I recall correctly it has STOP and STOP2 instructions, with the former being what FlipperZero is using and the latter requiring even less power. I think it's really complicated to manage the deeper sleep state and the radio with STOP2 though, and that might be why they stuck with STOP. (edit: whoops, they cover this and more in their write up)
For instance a very cheap 3.3v LDO I was using was taking about 1mA simply for being connected.
I am pretty sure this is a similar situation here and you can't go much lower with the current circuit.
Does it work with "real" 2000's stuff ?
I was able to show that one of my client's building access control is less secure than their lunch system, and for the NFC work I'm doing with some clients, it allows me to have a single device in my pocket with the 30 or so keys in use on the project instead of having 30 dongles in my backpack.
Besides from Bluetooth and USB:
- 433MHz is very much alive (various RF-controller lights, gate openers and such) AND can be used to remotely control another Flipper.
- Both 3.56 MHz and 125kHz are alive in door locks and RFID tags.
- IR is still alive with most TVs.
So yeah, it's missing 2.4 GHz ISM stuff. But given hardware they packed in, it's a rather good multi-tool.
Antique?
Three separate providers have handed me access cards which turned out to be MIFARE Classic 1K in the last month.
I think it's great that a tool like this is being deployed widely into the hands of children (way better than chameleons/proxmark being in the hands of people who know what they are doing and everyone else thinking you're are a paranoid madman for knowing they exist), however it probably means that hotels are going to start charging you for not giving back your room key again before too long...
https://www.tindie.com/products/eried/mayhem-for-flipper-zer...
and you can also swap out the firmware as well: https://github.com/DarkFlippers/unleashed-firmware
I cloned my work & apartment ID cards (RFID & NFC). I read my cats microchip to confirm she actually had one & what the ID was.
It can do all sorts of other wireless stuff I haven't tried out yet.
But for most, yeah, it's a neat toy. But that doesn't make it much different than Arduino or Rasping.
Unless you actually swipe someone's RFID tag it has very little practical security use here.
But in other European countries I'm sure they still rely a lot on radio for gates and parking access.
My underground parking sends a wireless signal to open the door after I've typed in my keycode.
Now the wireless signal to your garage door, that's a surprise to me. I don't even drive tho. I guess it might be fairly common when they want to save space by not burying cables from a keypad reader that is outside the garage.
https://forum.flipperzero.one/t/buying-a-flipper-in-the-us-w...
Do you need one? I thought this thing was open source, so you could theoretically make your own clone just without the cool case
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/technology/flipper-zer...
These fail a lot, without warning, and it's hard for me to work out why. Kits like those provided by Fluke are REALLY EXPENSIVE and it got me thinking here... Can I use the Flipper GPIO to build my own network tester?
I would love to be able to test continuity, failures, and even do a 10Gbit line test.
Anyone know if this is possible?
This is why I added a RTC to my RPi3 + battery pack + HackRF + Portapack. Anything the RPi3 does must have proper timestamps.
what was battery life before?
“We are proud to announce that starting the firmware version 0.82, your Flipper Zero's battery life will last up to 1 month! It took us 2 years to resolve all firmware issues that prevented Flipper Zero from switching to power-saving mode, resulting in the same power consumption baseline in both idle and active states. As a result, Flipper Zero's battery life was approximately 1 week instead of the intended 1 month.”